Securing Serenity: Essential Safety Checks for Your Horse Trailer

safety checks for your horse trailer
Horse Trailer Safety

As a devoted horse owner, you understand the importance of ensuring your equine companion’s safety and comfort. One crucial aspect of this responsibility lies in the proper maintenance and care of your horse trailer. After all, you wouldn’t want to put your horse at risk by transporting them in a faulty or unsafe trailer.

In this article, we’ll guide you through the safety checks for your horse trailer you’ll need to perform to guarantee a smooth, stress-free journey for both you and your horse.

Don’t worry if you’re not a seasoned horse trailer expert – we’ve got your back. With the help of our knowledgeable, detail-oriented advice, you’ll be able to confidently assess the condition of your trailer and address any potential issues before they escalate into major problems.

We’ll cover everything from inspecting the tires and wheels to evaluating the hitch and coupling integrity, as well as checking the brakes, lighting system, and interior. With these vital safety checks under your belt, you can ensure that your horse trailer is always in tip-top shape, providing your equine companion with the secure and serene transport they deserve.

Inspect the Tires and Wheels

Don’t let the wheels fall off the wagon when it comes to inspecting the tires and wheels of your trusty steed’s mobile home. Regularly checking the tire pressure, looking for any signs of wear and tear, and ensuring the lug nuts are properly tightened can make all the difference in keeping your horse safe and secure during transport.

Make sure to examine the spare tire, ensuring it’s in good shape and properly inflated. Additionally, take the time to inspect the wheel bearings for any signs of rust or damage. Greasing the bearings regularly will help prevent premature wear and keep your trailer rolling smoothly.

When it comes to the wheels, don’t forget to give the axles and suspension system a thorough once-over. Look for signs of wear, damage, or rust that could compromise the integrity of your trailer’s suspension. Remember, a smooth and stable ride helps ensure your horse’s comfort and safety.

After you’ve covered all these bases, you’re ready to move on to the next critical safety check: examining the brakes and lighting system to ensure a safe and visible journey for both you and your equine companion.

Check the Brakes and Lighting System

Before hitting the road, check the brakes and lighting system on your horse trailer.

Always test the brake functionality to ensure a safe and smooth ride for your equine friends.

Also make sure your brake lights and signals are operational, as these features are important for maintaining visibility and communication with other drivers on the road.

White Horse Trailer

Test Brake Functionality

Make sure your trailer’s brakes are working properly for a smooth and safe ride for your horse. A well-functioning brake system is essential to maintain control over your vehicle and trailer, especially when driving on steep or uneven terrain, making sudden stops, or maneuvering in traffic.

To test the brake functionality of your horse trailer, follow these steps:

  1. Connect your towing vehicle and horse trailer, ensuring all electrical connections are secure.
  2. With the engine running, press the brake pedal in the towing vehicle and observe if the trailer brakes are engaging.
  3. Drive your towing vehicle and trailer at a slow speed in a safe area, applying the brakes to check they are working effectively and stopping both the vehicle and trailer smoothly.

If your trailer’s brakes are not functioning properly, it’s essential to address the issue before hitting the road. This could involve adjusting the brake controller, replacing worn brake pads, or consulting with a professional mechanic.

With fully operational brakes, you can have peace of mind knowing that your horse trailer is safe and secure for your journey.

As you continue to evaluate the safety of your horse trailer, don’t forget to inspect the lighting system. In the next section, we’ll discuss how to ensure your brake lights and signals are working correctly to maintain clear communication with surrounding drivers.

Ensure Brake Lights and Signals are Operational

So, you’ve checked your brakes and they’re working like a charm, but what about those pesky brake lights and signals? Ensuring that these are operational is crucial for the safety of you, your horse, and other drivers on the road.

Start by connecting your trailer to your towing vehicle, then turn on your vehicle’s headlights, and hazard lights, and test both the left and right turn signals. While doing this, have a friend or family member walk around the trailer to verify that all lights are functioning properly.

If any lights are dim or not working, you may need to replace the bulbs or check for wiring issues.  Pay attention to the connection between your trailer and towing vehicle. A loose or corroded connection can cause intermittent or non-functional lights.

To maintain a solid connection, clean both the trailer and vehicle plugs with a wire brush, and apply a thin layer of dielectric grease to protect against corrosion.

After ensuring your brake lights and signals are operational, you can move on to another essential aspect of your trailer’s safety: evaluating the hitch and coupling integrity.

Horse Trailering

Evaluate Hitch and Coupling Integrity

Don’t underestimate the importance of thoroughly assessing your hitch and coupling’s integrity for a worry-free journey with your horse. A secure and well-maintained hitch and coupling system allows for the safe transportation of your horse.

Start by inspecting the hitch for any signs of wear, rust, or damage, and ensure it’s compatible with your towing vehicle. Check that the ball and socket are properly aligned and free from debris, and lubricate as necessary for smooth operation. Examine the safety chains and breakaway cable, making sure they’re in good condition and securely fastened to the towing vehicle.

Next, test the coupling by connecting and disconnecting it a few times to ensure it’s functioning correctly. Listen for the distinctive ‘click’ sound when the ball and socket engage, and apply weight to the hitch to confirm it’s securely locked in place.

If you notice any problems or have concerns about your hitch and coupling system, consult with a professional before hitting the road. With the confidence that your horse trailer is safely hitched, you can turn your attention to other critical areas, such as examining the trailer’s floorboards and interior for any potential hazards or damage.

Examine the Trailer’s Floorboards and Interior

Now that the hitch and coupling are in top shape, let’s move on to inspecting the floorboards and interior of the trailer, ensuring a comfortable and hazard-free ride for your equine buddy.

Begin by examining the floorboards for any signs of rot, rust, or damage. Pay special attention to the areas where the floor meets the walls, as this is a common place for moisture to accumulate and cause issues. If you have a wooden floor, press firmly with a screwdriver to check for any soft spots that may indicate rot. For aluminum or steel floors, look for signs of corrosion or rust. If you find any areas of concern, it’s best to consult with a professional to determine if repairs or replacements are necessary.

Next, take a look around the interior of the trailer and check for any sharp edges, protruding screws, or damaged areas that can pose a risk to your horse. Inspect the walls, dividers, and ceiling for any signs of wear or damage. Make sure all latches, hinges, and other hardware are in good working order and properly secured. Don’t forget to assess the padding and mats for any tears or excessive wear that could compromise your horse’s comfort and safety during transport.

Once you’ve completed these examinations, you’re ready to move on to the next aspect of horse trailer safety: performing regular maintenance and cleaning to keep everything in optimal condition.

Perform Regular Maintenance and Cleaning

It’s important to keep up with regular maintenance and cleaning for a smooth, stress-free ride for both you and your horse. Regular maintenance ensures the longevity of your horse trailer and prevents potential breakdowns or accidents, while a clean trailer keeps your horse healthy and comfortable.

To maintain your trailer, check the brakes, tires, and wheel bearings routinely, and replace them as needed. Lubricate all moving parts, including hinges and locks, to prevent rust and corrosion. Inspect the electrical system and lighting for any potential issues, and address them promptly.

Cleaning your horse trailer is just as important as maintaining its mechanical components. Remove all bedding, hay, and manure after each use, and power wash the interior to remove dirt and grime. Disinfect the trailer regularly to prevent the spread of bacteria and disease, and allow it to air dry before adding fresh bedding. Clean and inspect the ventilation system to ensure proper airflow for your horse.

Lastly, don’t forget to clean the exterior of your trailer, as this not only maintains its appearance but also allows you to spot any potential damage or issues that may need attention.

Frequently Asked Questions

What are the best practices for safely loading and unloading my horse into the trailer?

 To ensure you’re safely loading and unloading your horse into the trailer, follow these best practices:

  • First, make sure your horse is comfortable and familiar with the trailer by practicing loading and unloading without actually going anywhere.
  • Always use a lead rope, and keep a calm, confident demeanor so your horse trusts you.
  • Make sure the trailer is well-lit, clean, and free of any hazards.
  • When loading, approach the trailer at a slight angle and encourage your horse to step in with gentle pressure on the lead rope.
  • Once in the trailer, secure your horse with appropriate safety restraints, making sure they’re neither too tight nor too loose.
  • When unloading, always do so in a controlled, unhurried manner, allowing your horse to back out slowly and steadily.

By following these steps, you’ll minimize risks and ensure a safe and stress-free experience for both you and your horse.

Towing Horse Trailer

How can I properly secure my horse within the trailer to ensure its safety during transit?

To properly secure your horse within the trailer and ensure their safety during transit, start by selecting the appropriate halter and lead rope combination for your horse. Make sure the halter fits snugly, but not too tight, and attach the lead rope securely to the halter.

When tying your horse inside the trailer, use a quick-release knot or a safety-release clip, allowing for an easy release in case of emergencies. Adjust the length of the lead rope to provide your horse with enough room to move its head comfortably, but not so much that it can get tangled or caught.

Additionally, consider using padded dividers or chest and rump bars to help keep your horse in place during the trip. Don’t forget to check all latches, doors, and windows for proper function and security, ensuring your horse remains safe and comfortable throughout the journey.

Are there any additional safety features or accessories that can be added to my horse trailer for increased security and stability?

Oh, you think your horse trailer is secure enough? Think again! There are several additional safety features and accessories you can add to ensure increased security and stability during transit.

For instance, consider installing a trailer camera system to monitor your horse’s movements and behavior, a weight distribution hitch to improve ride stability, or an electronic brake controller for enhanced braking performance. You might also want to look into anti-sway bars or air-ride suspension systems to minimize trailer sway and provide a smoother ride.

Remember, the more secure and stable your trailer is, the more serenity you and your horse can enjoy during your journeys together.

What are some emergency procedures to follow in case of an accident or breakdown while transporting my horse in the trailer?

In the event of an accident or breakdown while transporting your horse, try to remain calm and follow emergency procedures to ensure the safety of both you and your equine friend.

First, activate your hazard lights and pull off the road as safely and quickly as possible. Contact emergency services or roadside assistance if necessary.

While waiting for help, make sure to keep a safe distance from the road and avoid standing directly behind the trailer. Check on your horse, speaking to them calmly and reassuringly, and assess the situation.

If your horse is injured or panicking, don’t attempt to unload them without professional help. In case of minor incidents, it’s wise to carry an emergency kit with first aid supplies, a spare tire, and tools for minor repairs.

Remember, your horse’s well-being relies on your ability to think clearly and act decisively during an emergency situation.

How can I ensure proper ventilation and temperature control within the horse trailer to keep my horse comfortable during travel?

Ah, the joys of horse travel – nothing quite beats trying to keep your 1,200-pound friend comfortable in a tiny metal box on wheels. But don’t worry, ensuring proper ventilation and temperature control within the horse trailer is easier than you might think.

Start by ensuring all vents and windows are clean and functioning properly; you don’t want any clogged vents or stuck windows hindering airflow. Make sure the trailer has proper insulation to help regulate temperature, and consider installing a thermometer to monitor and maintain a comfortable climate.

On hot days, park in the shade whenever possible, and keep your horse hydrated. In colder weather, use breathable blankets or sheets to keep your horse warm without causing overheating. And remember, always check on your horse regularly during travel to make sure they’re comfortable and content.

Conclusion

Don’t neglect the importance of safety checks for your horse trailer. A study found that 68% of trailer accidents were caused by improper maintenance and equipment failure. Taking the time to inspect and maintain your trailer can significantly reduce the risk of an accident.

Stay proactive and ensure your horse’s safety by performing these essential checks regularly. By doing so, you’ll be well on your way to securing serenity for both you and your equine companion.

Trailblazing: How Long Can A Horse Safely Travel in a Trailer?

How Long Can A Horse Safely Travel in a Trailer

As a horse owner, you know that transporting to events or even just to new pastures can be a stressful and potentially unsafe experience for your horse. Discover how long can a horse safely travel in a trailer while learning the factors affecting travel duration, preparation tips, legal considerations, and more.

Trailering Horses

Key Takeaways:

  • The length of time a horse can safely stay in a trailer depends on factors such as age, health, temperament, fitness level, and overall trailer conditions. Generally, horses should not be transported for more than 8-10 hours without rest.
  • Proper preparation is important before loading a horse into a trailer, including gradually introducing them to the trailer environment and practicing loading multiple times. Positive reinforcement and working with a trainer can help ease the process.
  • Proper ventilation, temperature control, and access to water are crucial for the comfort and safety of horses during transportation. Owners should take steps to ensure these factors are addressed.
  • The type of trailer used for transporting horses, such as straight load, slant load, or stock trailer, can impact travel time and comfort. Each type has its pros and cons, and the choice should be based on the horse’s comfort level and personal preference.
  • Transporting horses is not only a matter of safety but also a legal issue. State laws regulate rest breaks and space requirements for horses during transportation, while federal regulations apply to commercial haulers. It’s important to be aware of and comply with these regulations to ensure the welfare of the animals and avoid legal penalties.

The Basics: how long can a horse safely travel in a trailer?

Transporting a horse can be a stressful experience for both the animal and the owner. One of the most important things to consider when transporting a horse is how long they can safely remain in a trailer. The recommended maximum duration for transporting horses is 12 hours, but this varies based on several factors.

One of the most significant factors that determine how long a horse can stay in a trailer without causing harm is the age and health of the animal. Younger horses with developing bones and immune systems are much more susceptible to stress than adult horses.

Similarly, older horses with preexisting health conditions may not tolerate prolonged periods of transportation as well as younger, healthier animals. It’s important to consult with your veterinarian before undertaking any long-distance trips with your horse to ensure that they are healthy enough to handle it.

Another factor that influences how long a horse can safely stay in a trailer is their temperament. Horses who are particularly nervous or high-strung may not tolerate travel as well as more laid-back animals.

Monitor your horse’s body language and behavior during transportation to ensure that they are comfortable and calm throughout the journey. Proper ventilation, temperature control, and access to water also play important roles in keeping horses safe and comfortable during transportation.

Preparing your Horse for Travel

Horse Riding In A Trailer

Tips on how to prepare your horse mentally and physically before loading them into a trailer

Transporting horses can be stressful for them, especially if they are not used to it. It’s important to take some time and prepare your horse both mentally and physically before loading them into the trailer.

One way you can do this is by gradually introducing your horse to the trailer environment. This includes allowing them to sniff around the interior and become familiar with it.

Give them time to get comfortable in there before you close it up. Another tip is to practice loading your horse onto the trailer several times before traveling long distances.

This will help desensitize your horse to the process of getting on the trailer, making things easier when it comes time for travel day. You can use treats or rewards as positive reinforcement when they get in or work with a trainer who specializes in teaching horses how to load.

The importance of proper ventilation, temperature control, and hydration during transportation

When transporting horses long distances it’s important that they have access to appropriate ventilation. A poorly ventilated trailer can cause respiratory problems including coughing, nasal discharge, or even pneumonia in extreme cases. Controlling temperature is also important when transporting horses.

During hot summer months keep windows open and fans running while avoiding transporting during peak heat times (usually midday). During colder months provide blankets for horses while also making sure they don’t overheat from excess layers.

Horses should also have access to water throughout transportation which requires regular stops or a water source available within trailers if available. Properly preparing a horse for travel ensures their safety preventing unnecessary stress injuries such as slips on wet floors or falls caused by unstable footing or sudden movements which would prevent further harm.

Horses Drinking Horse Trailer

Types of Trailers and Their Impact on Travel Time

When you’re transporting a horse, one of the most important factors to consider is the type of trailer you’ll be using. Not all trailers are created equal, and some are better suited for long-distance travel than others. Before making your choice, it’s important to understand the pros and cons of each type.

Straight Load Trailers

A straight load trailer is designed so that horses face forward during transport. They enter through a rear ramp or side ramp and stand in stalls that run parallel to the length of the trailer. Straight load trailers are often preferred by owners because they provide more headroom for the horse, allowing them to move around easily.

However, these trailers can be heavy and difficult to maneuver due to their size. Also, some horses may feel trapped if they are not comfortable in confined spaces.

Slant Load Trailers

Slant-load trailers position horses at a slight angle while traveling. This design allows more horses to be transported at once as there is generally less space taken up with aisles between stalls. Slant-load trailers have smaller turning radiuses which makes them easier to maneuver in tight spaces. The downside is that these types of trailers tend to be narrower than straight-load ones resulting in less headroom for tall horses. Slant-load trailers also have fewer windows which can make them feel dark inside which might upset some horses.

Stock Trailers

A stock trailer is an open-sided trailer without stalls or dividers where horses can move around freely during transport. This design allows for ample ventilation thanks to its open sides but lacks security features such as dividers and walls which can make your horse feel unsafe or insecure during transport. Some owners prefer stock trailers when transporting larger breeds or pregnant mares as it allows them to move around more freely while in transit. The type of trailer you choose will largely depend on your horse’s comfort level as well as your personal preference and what you have available.

Take time to carefully consider each option and keep in mind the distances you’ll be traveling and the number of horses that need transportation. By choosing a trailer that meets all your needs, you can ensure a smooth and stress-free journey for both you and your horse.

Fifth Wheel Trailer

Legal Considerations When Transporting Horses

Traveling with horses can be an incredibly thrilling experience! However, it’s important to be aware of the regulations and requirements associated with horse travel. When you’re traveling with your horse within state boundaries, you’ll only need one document, which is the “proof of ownership” certificate. But if you’re planning to transport your horse across state lines, there are additional regulatory laws that you need to consider.

To ensure the safety and well-being of the livestock population and prevent theft, the state from which you’re departing governs the brand inspections. As part of these regulations, you’ll need a health certificate from your veterinarian. This official document states that your horse is healthy and fit to travel from your starting point to your destination.

It’s important to note that almost all U.S. states require horse owners or professional shippers to carry proper documentation when moving horses within and across state lines. This documentation includes proof that each animal has tested negative for equine infectious anemia and has been examined by a veterinarian within a specific timeframe prior to travel.

Remember, these regulations are in place to ensure the safety and well-being of your horse as well as the overall equine community. By following these guidelines, you’ll have a smoother and more enjoyable travel experience with your four-legged companion!

Signs that Your Horse Needs to Take a Break

Transporting a horse for long distances can be a stressful experience for both the animal and the handler. Horses are sensitive creatures, and it’s essential to monitor them during transportation to ensure they’re comfortable and safe.

But how do you know when your horse needs to take a break while traveling in a trailer? One of the most common signs is restlessness.

If your horse is continually moving around or trying to shift their weight while in the trailer, it may be time for a break. Other symptoms may include sweating, panting, or rapid breathing rate, all of which are indications that your horse is experiencing discomfort or stress.

Indicators that Your Horse is Experiencing Discomfort or Stress During Transportation

There are several indicators that your horse might be experiencing discomfort or stress during transportation in a trailer. In addition to restlessness and rapid breathing rate as mentioned earlier, another sign is reluctance to enter the trailer after stopping at rest areas. If your horse appears hesitant or overly anxious about getting back into the trailer, this could indicate some underlying discomfort.

Other signs include pawing at the ground repeatedly (as if trying to warn you something isn’t right), excessive sweating even when temperatures aren’t high enough for such behavior, and foaming at the mouth which could indicate nervousness due to anxiety-inducing situations such as sudden stops or turns of roads. If you notice any of these signs while transporting your horse, it’s important to take prompt action.

White Horse In Horse Trailer

Steps You Should Take if You Notice Any Concerning Signs

If you notice any concerning signs that your horse may need an immediate break from travel inside the trailer during transportation like those listed above, stop immediately when safe! Find an area where there’s enough space for both you and your animal friend out of sight from oncoming traffic, and give them a chance to stretch their legs. It’s important to provide your horse with enough water during these breaks as well, especially if the weather is hot or humid.

After giving your horse a break, it’s crucial to assess its condition before getting back in the trailer. Check for any signs of injury or unnecessary sweating that might indicate an underlying problem.

If everything appears normal and your horse is willing to continue the journey, then you can proceed with caution. Monitoring your horse’s behavior during transportation in a trailer is important for their safety and well-being.

Always be aware of any concerning signs and take prompt action if necessary. With the right preparation and attention to detail, you can ensure that your horse stays healthy and happy during long-distance transportation.

The importance of safe and comfortable transportation for horses

Transporting a horse can be a stressful experience for the animal. As owners, it’s our responsibility to ensure their safety and comfort during the journey. After reading this article, you should have a better understanding of how long a horse can be in a trailer without causing harm and what steps you can take to make the journey as smooth as possible.

Remember that every horse is different, so it’s important to take their individual needs into consideration. Taking steps such as preparing your horse mentally and physically before travel, ensuring proper ventilation and temperature control within the trailer, and recognizing signs that your horse needs a break are all important aspects of responsible transportation.

By following best practices for safe transportation, you can rest easy knowing that your horse is happy and healthy throughout the journey. So don’t let fear or uncertainty hold you back from exploring new horizons with your four-legged friend – with some preparation and care, anything is possible!

How to Clean a Horse Trailer to Perfection!

How to clean a horse trailer

In this post, we will provide a step-by-step tutorial on how to clean a horse trailer effectively. Whether it’s the interior or exterior surfaces, we will cover all aspects of the cleaning process. By following our comprehensive guide, which includes the use of easily accessible products, equipment, and practical techniques, you will be able to maintain a clean and hygienic horse trailer. So let’s dive in and learn how to clean a horse trailer properly.

Key Takeaways

  • Remove bedding and debris, disconnect the electricity, and water supply, and placemats and protective gear before cleaning your horse trailer.
  • Use natural or commercial cleaners to wash surfaces thoroughly, disinfect the trailer, and address any rust or corrosion for proper maintenance.
  • Choose non-toxic products specifically designed for equine transport that are safe for animals during the cleaning process.
  • Regularly clean and maintain your horse trailer to prevent harmful bacteria buildup, prolong its lifespan, and provide a comfortable ride for your horses.

Preparing Your Horse Trailer For Cleaning

Before cleaning your horse trailer, make sure to remove all bedding and debris, disconnect the electricity and water supply, and place mats and protective gear on the floor to prevent damage during cleaning.

Remove Bedding And Debris

Before starting the cleaning process, it’s crucial to remove all bedding and debris from your horse trailer. This will help ensure a thorough and efficient deep cleaning. Here are the steps to follow:

  1. Take out any hay or shavings that may be used as bedding for your horses.
  2. Clear away any manure, dirt, or leftover feed that may be present in the trailer.
  3. Check the storage compartments and tack areas for stray items that need removal or organizing.
  4. Remove any blankets or equipment stored inside the trailer during transportation.
  5. Don’t forget to inspect and clear hidden corners, under mats, and other hard-to-reach places where dirt tends to accumulate.

By removing all bedding and debris from your horse trailer, you’ll create a clean environment for both you and your horses, ensuring a healthier space during travel.

Disconnect Electricity And Water Supply

Before starting the cleaning process, it is important to disconnect any electricity and water supply connected to your horse trailer. This step ensures the safety of both you and your trailer while cleaning. Follow these steps:

  1. Turn off any electrical devices or appliances inside the trailer.
  2. Unplug the trailer from its power source, if applicable.
  3. Disconnect and remove any extension cords or wiring that may be present.
  4. Turn off and disconnect water hoses or faucets that are connected to the trailer.
  5. Empty out any water tanks or containers used for holding water within the trailer.
  6. Ensure that all sources of power and water are disconnected and secured before proceeding with the cleaning process.

Remember to keep these supplies for horse trailer cleaning handy during this process: bleach, Clorox Wipes, automobile soap, microfiber towels, and baking soda. These items will be useful for effectively cleaning your horse trailer without causing damage or harm to its surfaces or components.

Place Mats And Protective Gear On The Floor

Placing mats and protective gear on the floor of your horse trailer is an important step in preparing for a thorough cleaning. This not only safeguards the trailer surfaces from potential damage but also provides additional traction while working. Here are some tips to follow:

  1. Choose appropriate floor mats: Opt for rubber or foam mats designed specifically for horse trailers, as they provide cushioning and grip while being easy to clean.
  2. Select suitable protective gear: Use items like knee pads, gloves, and eye protection to ensure your safety during the cleaning process.
  3. Clean the mats before placing them: Give your rubber mats a quick rinse with water and soap to remove any dirt or debris before laying them on the aluminum floors.
  4. Lay the mats evenly across the trailer bed: This will help distribute weight evenly and prevent slips as you work.
  5. Cover vulnerable areas with a tarp or trailer cover: Protect wood floors, metal trailer frames, and other sensitive surfaces from water, soap, and debris by using a tarp or specialized cover.
  6. Secure loose items with Bungee Cords or straps: Prevent loose equipment from shifting during cleaning by securing them in place.

By following these steps, you’ll create a safer workspace that protects both you and your horse trailer as you embark on your deep cleaning journey.

Steps To Clean A Horse Trailer

To clean a horse trailer, start by sweeping out all debris and dirt before washing the surfaces with natural or commercial cleaners; then disinfect the trailer and allow it to dry completely, followed by addressing any rust or corrosion.

Clean Inside Of Horse Trailer

Sweep Out The Trailer

Keeping your horse trailer clean is important to ensure the health and safety of your horses during transportation. Here are the steps for sweeping out the trailer:

  1. Before sweeping, remove any loose debris such as hay, manure, or bedding materials from the trailer floor.
  2. Use a broom or brush to sweep out the interior of the trailer thoroughly. Pay attention to corners and crevices where dust and debris can accumulate.
  3. For hard-to-reach areas, use a handheld vacuum to remove any remaining dirt or debris.
  4. Sweep out ramps, doors, and vents with a small brush or whisk broom.
  5. After sweeping, dispose of all debris properly.

Regularly sweeping out your horse trailer is an essential step in maintaining its cleanliness and preventing harmful bacteria buildup.

Wash Surfaces With Natural Or Commercial Cleaners

To get your horse trailer truly clean, it’s important to wash the surfaces with either natural or commercial cleaners. Here are some options for cleaning products to consider:

  • Natural cleaners such as vinegar and baking soda can work wonders on tough stains. Mix a quarter cup of baking soda with a few tablespoons of water to form a paste, then apply it to the affected area and scrub with a brush or sponge.
  • Commercial horse trailer cleaners are specially formulated to tackle grime, dirt, and other stubborn messes. Look for products specifically designed for use in horse trailers, like those made by Manna Pro or Absorbine.
  • Disinfectants that are safe for animals can help kill harmful bacteria and prevent the spread of disease. Some good options include bleach mixed with water (one part bleach to ten parts water), Lysol disinfectant spray, or products like F10SC Veterinary Disinfectant.
  • It’s also important to lubricate hinges and moving parts using appropriate lubricants like WD-40.

When cleaning the surfaces of your horse trailer, make sure you take care not to damage any delicate materials like rubber mats or aluminum floors. Use gentle pressure when scrubbing and avoid using harsh chemicals that could cause discoloration or corrosion over time. With regular cleaning and maintenance, your horse trailer will stay looking great and performing well for years to come!

Disinfect The Trailer And Allow It To Dry Completely

To ensure that your horse trailer is thoroughly cleaned, it is important to disinfect it and allow it to dry completely. Follow these steps:

  1. Choose a disinfectant that is safe for animals, such as a solution of bleach and water (one part bleach to ten parts water).
  2. Spray the disinfectant onto all surfaces of the trailer, including walls and floors.
  3. Use a scrub brush or cloth to work the disinfectant into any soiled areas.
  4. Allow the disinfectant to sit for at least ten minutes before rinsing with clean water.
  5. Make sure that all surfaces are thoroughly rinsed and free of any remaining disinfectant.
  6. Allow the trailer to dry completely before placing bedding or horses back inside.

Regularly disinfecting your horse trailer can help prevent the spread of harmful bacteria and parasites that could potentially harm your horses. Additionally, allowing the trailer to dry completely after cleaning can help prevent the growth of mold or mildew, which can be harmful to both your horses and the durability of your trailer.

Proper cleaning techniques for your horse trailer

Address Any Rust Or Corrosion

Rust and corrosion can cause serious damage to your horse trailer if left untreated. Here are some steps to address any rust or corrosion:

  1. Inspect the trailer thoroughly for any rusty or corroded areas, paying close attention to the hitch, frame, and undercarriage.
  2. Use a wire brush or sandpaper to remove loose rust and corrosion from affected areas.
  3. Apply a rust converter or metal primer to the affected area using a paintbrush or spray can.
  4. Allow the converter or primer to dry completely before applying paint.
  5. Paint over the converted area with high-quality enamel paint that is specifically formulated for trailers.

Remember, addressing rust and corrosion in your horse trailer as soon as possible can prevent further damage and prolong the life of your investment. Keep in mind that regular cleaning and maintenance can also help prevent rust and corrosion from forming in the first place.

Products And Equipment For Cleaning A Horse Trailer

To effectively clean your horse trailer, it’s important to have the right supplies and equipment on hand, such as natural cleaners like vinegar and baking soda, disinfectants safe for animals, lubricants for hinges and moving parts, and cleaning tools like brushes, sponges, and hoses.

Natural Cleaners Such As Vinegar And Baking Soda

If you prefer to use natural cleaners, vinegar and baking soda are excellent options for cleaning your horse trailer. Vinegar is a powerful disinfectant that can help eliminate bacteria and odors in the trailer.

Mix equal parts of water and white vinegar in a spray bottle, then shake well before using it on surfaces such as walls, floors, and mats. Baking soda is also an effective deodorizer that can be used to neutralize unpleasant smells in your horse trailer.

Simply sprinkle baking soda on the floor or other areas with strong odors, let it sit for 30 minutes, then vacuum it up.

Additionally, if you don’t have any commercial supplies or want something more eco-friendly or wallet-friendly than most cleaning agents sold commercially out there today; baking soda (1/4 cup per gallon of warm water) mixed with dish soap (2-3 tablespoons) works wonders on tough dirt stains like manure spills while being gentle enough not to damage aluminum trailers either!

Disinfectants That Are Safe For Animals

When it comes to disinfecting your horse trailer, it’s important to use products that are safe for your animals. Harsh chemicals can be harmful or even toxic if ingested by horses.

A great option is a natural disinfectant like vinegar, which is effective at killing bacteria and viruses without any harmful side effects.

Another option is using commercial horse trailer cleaners that are specifically formulated for equine transport. These cleaners will have ingredients that are gentle on your horse while still being effective at cleaning and deodorizing the trailer interior.

Regularly disinfecting your horse trailer not only keeps it clean but also helps prevent the spread of infectious diseases among horses, making it an essential part of caring for these majestic animals on the go.

Easy and efficient ways to clean your horse trailer

Lubricants For Hinges And Moving Parts

It is important to keep hinges and other moving parts of your horse trailer well-lubricated for smooth operation. Using a lubricant like WD-40 or silicone spray can prevent rust and wear from developing on these components.

Be sure to apply the lubricant sparingly and wipe away any excess to avoid buildup, which can attract dirt and grime over time. Neglecting proper maintenance of these parts could lead to safety hazards while transporting horses.

FACT: Regular cleaning followed by applying a small amount of petroleum jelly or mineral oil on door hinges, ramp hinges/locks/latches after washing them helps in preventing corrosion.

Cleaning Tools Such As Brushes, Sponges, And Hoses

When it comes to cleaning a horse trailer, having the right tools is essential. A soft-bristled brush can be used on the interior walls and mats to remove grime and dirt, while a sponge or cloth is perfect for wiping down padded areas.

For tougher cleaning tasks like removing rust or corrosion, grain sandpaper or steel wool can be used. Meanwhile, dental floss can effectively clean hard-to-reach corners.

Using appropriate cleaning supplies along with these tools will make sure that your horse trailer stays hygienic and safe for your equine companion.

Safety Precautions And Tips For Maintaining A Clean Horse Trailer

It’s important to take proper safety precautions when cleaning your horse trailer, such as wearing appropriate protective gear and ensuring proper ventilation. Regular maintenance of your trailer can also prevent potential safety hazards.

Step-by-step guide on how to clean a horse trailer

Wear Appropriate Protective Gear

To ensure your safety while cleaning a horse trailer, it is important to wear the appropriate protective gear. Here are some items you should consider using:

  1. Gloves – protect your hands from harsh chemicals and sharp edges.
  2. Eye protection – prevent debris or cleaning solutions from getting into your eyes.
  3. Dust mask or respirator – avoid breathing in dust and fumes from cleaners.
  4. Closed-toe shoes with non-slip soles – reduce the risk of slipping and falling while cleaning.
  5. Long pants and sleeves – protect your skin from irritants and sharp edges.

By wearing these items, you can minimize potential hazards and protect yourself while cleaning your horse trailer. Remember to follow all safety precautions when working with cleaning solutions and equipment to ensure a safe environment for both you and your horse.

Ensure Proper Ventilation

Proper ventilation is essential when cleaning a horse trailer to prevent the buildup of harmful fumes and dust. Here are some tips for ensuring proper ventilation:

  1. Open all windows and roof vents to allow fresh air to circulate throughout the trailer.
  2. Use a fan or blower to increase air circulation.
  3. If possible, clean the horse trailer outdoors in an open area.
  4. Wear a dust mask or respirator to protect yourself from inhaling any harmful particles.
  5. Avoid using harsh chemicals that can release toxic fumes into the air.

Regularly maintaining proper ventilation when cleaning a horse trailer can promote a healthy environment for your horses and ensure a safe and comfortable travel experience for them.

Avoid Using Harsh Chemicals Or Power Washers

It is important to be cautious when using cleaning products and equipment on your horse trailer. Here are some tips to avoid damaging your trailer:

  • Harsh chemicals can damage the surfaces of your trailer and be harmful to animals. Instead, opt for natural cleaners or commercial cleaners specifically designed for horse trailers.
  • Power washers can strip paint and decals off your trailer, as well as damage seals and electrical components. Use a gentle hose or pressure washer with a low setting instead.
  • Avoid using abrasive tools such as steel wool or grain sandpaper unless cleaning rusted areas, as these can scratch and damage the flooring and walls of your trailer.
  • Always wear eye protection and appropriate clothing when cleaning to avoid injury from cleaning materials or debris.
  • Regular maintenance and cleaning of your horse trailer will help prevent the need for harsher cleaning methods in the future.

Remember, taking care of your horse trailer is crucial for both the safety of your animals and the longevity of the trailer itself.

Regularly Sweep And Hose Down The Interior

Maintaining a clean horse trailer requires regular sweeping and hosing down of the interior. This helps to remove any debris, dirt, or cobwebs that may have accumulated. Here are some tips on how to do it:

  1. Start by removing all the loose items from the trailer, such as buckets, hay nets, and feeders.
  2. Use a broom or stiff brush to sweep out all the corners and hard-to-reach areas of the trailer.
  3. Once you’ve swept everything out, use a hose with a high-pressure nozzle to thoroughly spray down the walls and floor of the trailer.
  4. If there are any stubborn stains or grime on the floors or walls, use a scrub brush with mild soap to clean them.
  5. After you’ve scrubbed the areas that need extra attention, rinse everything down once again with your hose.
  6. Finally, let the interior of your trailer air dry completely before placing bedding back inside.

By regularly sweeping and hosing down your horse trailer’s interior, you can prevent harmful bacteria from accumulating and ensure your horse’s safety during transport. Remember to always wear appropriate protective gear when cleaning and avoid using harsh chemicals or power washers which could cause damage to your trailer’s surfaces.

Essential steps for a thorough horse trailer cleaning routine

Replace Any Damaged Or Worn Parts

Regular inspection of your horse trailer is crucial to ensure that it remains safe and comfortable for your horse. When you notice any damaged or worn parts, it’s important to replace them immediately before they cause bigger problems. Here are some parts that may need replacing and how to go about it:

  1. Tires – Check the tire pressure and the tread regularly. If you notice signs of wear, such as cracks or bulges, have them replaced.
  2. Floor – If the floor of your horse trailer is made of wood, check for warping or rotting. It’s important to address this immediately as it can compromise the stability of your trailer.
  3. Electrical components – Check all lights and wiring to ensure that they are functioning properly. Replace any broken bulbs or frayed wires.
  4. Trailer brakes – Inspect the brake system regularly to ensure that it’s working properly. Faulty brakes could cause accidents and put your horse at risk.
  5. Latches and hinges – Ensure that all latches and hinges are secure and functioning properly. Replace any worn-out ones as soon as possible.

Remember that regular maintenance can prevent costly repairs down the line while ensuring optimal safety during transportation for both you and your equine partner!

The End Of The Line

In conclusion, cleaning your horse trailer is an important task that should not be overlooked. By following the steps outlined in this guide, you can ensure that your trailer is clean and safe for your horses.

Whether you choose to use natural or commercial cleaners, be sure to take appropriate safety precautions and regularly maintain your trailer to prevent damage and prolong its lifespan.

5 Horse Trailer Flooring Options – Pros And Cons

Five Horse Trailer Flooring Options

In a past article, I showed you five handy steps to help you find the right trailer. For this post we’re going to dig a little deeper into five horse trailer flooring options. Now, you might be thinking that the type of flooring you have in your trailer isn’t all that important, but what you choose can make a big difference to your trailer, your horse, and your pocketbook.

I’ll talk about five options to consider: Wood, Aluminum, Rumber, Polylast and WERM. Each choice is different and has its own advantages and disadvantages. Differences range from cost and maintenance, to leg support for your horse. I’m going to take you through each options pros and cons, then you can decide for yourself which is best. We’ll cover these five main factors when considering trailer flooring:

  • Durability
  • Heat Transfer
  • Noise/Vibration Transfer
  • Maintenane
  • Cost

Key Takeaways:

  • Wood flooring is a classic, cost-effective option that provides good insulation and shock absorption, but requires proper treatment and maintenance to ensure durability.
  • Aluminum flooring is a popular choice but has drawbacks such as poor insulation, noise and vibration transfer, and potential corrosion if not cleaned and maintained regularly.
  • Rumber, a modern option made of recycled rubber and plastic, offers excellent durability, insulation, and shock absorption, but comes with a higher price tag compared to wood and aluminum.
  • Polylast, an eco-friendly flooring made of recycled rubber, provides great insulation, noise and vibration reduction, and is easy to maintain, but it is relatively expensive and can be difficult to repair if damaged.
  • WERM flooring shares many benefits with Polylast, such as insulation and shock absorption, but can be prone to damage from restless horses and may also be expensive to repair if damaged.

Wood Horse Trailer Flooring

When it comes to trailer flooring wood is a classic choice. Wood has been used for years and is still used today despite some more modern choices available and for good reason.

Durability: As long as the wood is installed properly with ¼” spacing and treated to protect against rot you’ll find that it lasts much longer than other types of flooring. The spacing helps with proper ventilation which allows for better drainage and keeps the wood from rotting prematurely.

Noise/Vibration Transfer: Because wood gives and bends slightly, it causes less vibrations and absorbs the shock of the road much better than materials like aluminum. This gives horses a much smoother, quieter ride while protecting their joints at the same time.

Heat Transfer: Unlike other options, wood won’t conduct heat from the road on those long summer hauls, and in the winter it won’t retain the cold. This means that you’ve got a comfortable ride for your horses year-round.

Maintenance: Wood floors are pretty low maintenance, but many people prefer to use rubber mats over them to provide extra cushion for their horse. If you do use rubber mats then you’ll have to take them out and hose them down about three times a year.

Cost: Wood is one of the most cost effective options for trailer flooring as long as it’s treated and properly maintained. If you ever have to replace or repair the floor the lumber is readily accessible, cheap, and it doesn’t require an expert to install. The typical range is from $600-900 depending on the size of your trailer and if you have a dressing room.

Aluminum Horse Trailer Flooring

Aluminum Horse Trailer Flooring

Heavily promoted by trailer companies, aluminum has been a very popular choice for trailer floors over the last few years. While it has its own merits, you might find that the drawbacks exceed the benefits.

Durability: Aluminum weighs less than other flooring options, but because it’s lighter, it’s also weaker. You have the option of planked aluminum floors- interlocked pieces that are stronger than the standard option, but even those require a lot more support than other types of flooring.

Noise/Vibration transfer: Unlike wood, aluminum does not absorb shock well and therefore creates a lot of noise and vibrations. Neither of these is going to help give your horse soundness of mind…or hoof for that matter.

Heat transfer: This just in! Aluminum is a highly conductive material! Surprised? I didn’t think so. This means the floors of your trailer are going to be burning in the summer and absolutely frigid in the winter.

Maintenance: While relatively easy to maintain, you have to be very careful to consistently clean your aluminum floors. This means taking out the rubber mats, rinsing them and the trailer, and letting everything fully dry before you replace them. You’ll want to do this at least 5 times a year. You’ll also want to have an acid bath done twice a year to help prevent oxidation and rust.

Cost: Being one of the most standard flooring options, aluminum isn’t as pricey compared to other options. However, if you end up having to replace it due to corrosion, the repairs run up to around $1000.

Rumbar Trailer Flooring

Rumber Horse Trailer Flooring

A more modern option, Rumber is a synthetic material made of 60% recycled rubber and 40% recycled plastic. It is made into tongue and groove boards that are fitted together to form a solid surface without the need for rubber mats on top.

Durability: Rumber is an extremely tough material that lasts for a long time. Because of its textured material it provides good, solid footing for the barefoot or shod horse even when wet.

Noise/vibration transfer: The mix of rubber and plastic effectively reduce noise and vibrations which means your horse’s ride is a lot more pleasant.

Heat Transfer: Of the five options, Rumber transfers the least amount of heat making it a great choice for those down South.

Maintenance: Cleaning Rumber couldn’t be any easier. You simply hose it out and let it dry. You don’t have to worry about drainage either; it easily drains out the back.

Cost: Perhaps the only drawback of Rumber is that it’s a little pricier than the first two flooring options. It runs upwards of $2000 generally, but if you factor in the cost to replace other types of flooring you might end up saving in the long run.

Polylast Horse Trailer Flooring

Polylast Horse Trailer Flooring

Another eco-friendly option, Polylast is made of 100% recycled rubber mixed with an adhesive. It is mixed and poured to ½” to ¾” thickness and leveled off using a trowel.

Durability: Similarly to Rumber, Polylast is very strong and lasts long time. Because it is bonded to the trailer floor, it will also protect the trailer bed from exposure to moisture and acid.

Noise/Vibrations: Being 100% rubber, naturally Polylast absorbs road noise and vibrations better than the other flooring choices. It provides lots of cushion and is slip resistant making it an ideal option for long hauls.

Heat Transfer: Polylast is a great insulator against heat and cold, your trailer will stay temperate and comfortable.

Maintenance: Cleaning Polylast is very easy. You just rinse it out and let it dry. Since it’s a porous material, moisture is able to drain through and the supporting floor with 5/16” holes drilled every 12” on center completes the drainage. This helps protect the integrity of your trailer bed. If the flooring is damaged however, it is very difficult to repair.

Cost: The main drawback is how expensive Polylast is. I’ve since quotes ranging from $10-16/ square foot and if it is damaged at any point it is very costly to fix.

WERM Horse Trailer Flooring

WERM Horse Trailer Flooring

This product is very similar to Polylast in that it is also made of 100% recycled rubber, mixed with adhesive and applied to the trailer floor in the same way.

Durability: WERM floors are quite durable and since they completely seal off the trailer floor the trailer bed is well protected. However they are prone to being damaged by horses that paw in the trailer, so if your horse gets restless on hauls this might not be an ideal choice.

Noise/Vibrations: Noise/Vibration reduction is top notch and the cushion, non-slip flooring provides excellent support for your horse.

Heat Transfer: Because WERM is made from 100% rubber it will not transfer heat and protects against the cold.

Maintenance: Just like Polylast, you simply have to rinse out your trailer with a hose to clean it. The only concern is that if, for some reason, moisture does find its way under the WERM flooring it will corrode your trailer bed and make it unstable. Also keep in mind that if the flooring is damaged, it is very costly to have repairs done.

Cost: The starting cost is around $10/square foot, but the size and make of your trailer can affect the end cost.

Everyone has their own ideas when it comes to trailer flooring. Some people swear that their WERM floors are the best thing they ever did for their trailer, others love the value of Rumber. I’m a no frills kinda guy myself so I prefer wood flooring above all. Whatever you choose, just be sure to take good care of it and you’ll have a trailer floor that won’t let you down.

What Should Horses Not Eat? – Toxic Plants and Human Foods

What Should Horses Not Eat
Horse Eating Flowers

I know the feeling of wanting to “spoil” your horse with the occasional tasty treat, but you might feed your horse something that could make him seriously ill or even die. Food that is safe for humans to eat doesn’t mean it’s safe for horses to eat. We break down what horses should not eat.

What should horses not eat includes chocolate, caffeine, meat, tomatoes, rhubarb, stone fruits, cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, potatoes, persimmons, dairy, bread, bran mashes, lawn clippings, acorns, compost, garlic, onions, dog food, and cat food. There are also many flowers that are toxic to horses listed below.

Those are most of the foods out there that are bad for a horse’s health. 

Don’t get me wrong, your horse isn’t going to die from eating most of these foods occasionally but these are foods that you should keep away from your horse because they are unhealthy for horses, especially over the long term. 

Garlic, for example, is found in some feeds, but the quantities are well measured because too much garlic is very bad for a horse’s health.

Large Quantities of Fruit

Feeding your horse an apple or banana occasionally isn’t going to cause any serious health issues. The problem occurs when the horse gets too much fruit during a single occasion like when they find an apple tree or get a bucket of overripe fruit thrown into their feed.

Too much fruit can cause colic and might lead to founder.

Cattle Feed

Drugs like Rumencin are commonly added to cattle feed, this can be deadly for a horse. I would advise buying feed from mills that specialize in making only horse feeds to avoid any of these drugs getting caught up in the feed.

Human Foods That Your Horse Should Not Eat

Toxic Human Food:

What I mean by “toxic” is that these foods are bad for your horses health, if your horse eats a large amount of some of these foods it could die very quickly. It’s also important to note that regular consumption of these human foods even in small doses may result in death due to health complications further down the line.

Remember that a horse naturally eats mostly grass and there is a huge difference between grass and the following human foods.

Caffeine

Coffee, tea, and cola contain the stimulant caffeine which can cause an irregular heart rhythm. Caffeine increases the heart rate and can cause dehydration.

It’s a good idea to keep your horse away from these drinks as they simply don’t need them! What I mean is that horses get all of their required water from grass, so there isn’t an actual need for anything else.

Chocolate

Horses are sensitive to the chemical, Theobromine, in chocolate. Large amounts of cocoa can kill a horse. Chocolate can cause colic, metabolic derangements, seizures, and internal bleeding in horses.

Meat

Horses should not eat meat. They are herbivores. Their digestive systems are not designed to process meat and we don’t know what the long-term side effects could be. 

I know of people who feed their horse meat on occasion and it did not harm them as far as anyone knows. The problem is that meat is VERY different from grass and other healthy forage which horses naturally eat. The long-term health defects of letting a horse eat meat are unknown.

Garlic and Onions

These are part of the Allium family. Garlic, onions, scallions, leeks, shallots, and chives, contain the chemical N-propyl disulfide which can destroy red blood cells and result in anemia.

As I mentioned before, garlic is used as a horse supplement but the key is using it in very small doses.

The same goes for onions, scallions, leeks, shallots, and chives. What might be okay in small doses isn’t worth it when there are so many other plants out there which horses can eat instead.

Onions Tomatoes Garlic

Tomatoes

The tomato is a member of the toxic Solanaceae plant family. The leafy green portions contain atropine, which can cause colic by slowing gut function. 

Hyoscyamine is the most abundant alkaloid found in tomatoes. Ingesting it will decrease saliva production and intestinal motility, which can lead to constipation or diarrhea depending on how your horses body processes these chemicals!

Well-known members of this plant family include chili peppers as well any other tomato-related veggies like eggplant and therefore should also be avoided.

Rhubarb

Rhubarb leaves can damage the digestive and urinary systems which can then lead to kidney failure. This is caused by calcium oxalates which are found in the leaves.

Fruit Seeds and Pits (Stone Fruits)

Pitted fruits like cherries, peaches nectarines, and apricots are ok to feed your horse as long as you remove the pit from each piece. 

Fruit pits are major choking hazards for horses. Seeing your horse choke on something is very stressful and can turn into something very bad. 

Apples and other fruits have pits or seeds which contain cyanide compounds, which can be toxic in large quantities. You should remove the core of an apple before feeding it to your horse but if you forget don’t get overly upset about it as one apple can be broken down by a healthy horse and not cause damage.

Avocado

Avocado is a fruit that horses have been known to eat. However, the toxin in avocados can cause colic, irregular heartbeat, and respiratory distress among other signs of illness when ingested by your horse. You should not feed your horse this type of plant and make sure there’s no access for grazing near avocado plants where horses graze or spend time.

Cabbage, Broccoli & Cauliflower

Cabbage Broccoli Cauliflower

Once again, in small amounts, these foods won’t kill your horse but if they eat just a bit too much they will most likely build up a lot of gas in their digestive systems causing severe pain and possible long-term damage. 

There is also a choking hazard because of the leaves and stems which can cause an obstruction in your horses throat.

These three vegetables all belong to a family called Brassica oleracea, otherwise known as cruciferous vegetables! This means they contain chemicals like fructans and goitrogens (plant substances capable of interfering with thyroid gland function). What this does is causes gas and bloating, or can also lead to weight loss.

If your horse is having problems with its digestion these vegetables should be avoided until they are feeling better!

Potatoes

Horses won’t normally care much for the taste of potatoes, they might eat the stems and leaves of the potato plant which is actually the most toxic part of the plant. 

If your horse eats green or rotten potatoes, toxicosis can occur. This affects the autonomic nervous system which can lead to death. 

Potatoes, like other large whole fruits or vegetables, can become lodged in your horse’s throat and choke them to death. It’s just not worth the risk!

Persimmons

The persimmon is a fruit that horses have been known to eat, but the toxin in them can cause colic.

Do not feed your horse any seeds or fibers from this fruit as it will become stuck inside of their gastrointestinal tract which can lead to severe pain and even death.

Dairy Products

Horses should NOT be fed dairy products because they are lactose intolerant that can cause a number of symptoms to include: digestive upset, diarrhea, and even colic.

They should not be given any sour milk or cream as these are the most common dairy products that horses eat when owners offer them without knowing their harmful effects.

Dairy Products Bread

Bread Products

Bread and other baked products can cause blockages in the horse’s digestive system which can lead to colic.

The reason for this is that they are not able to digest the baked product and the carbohydrates in it. Bread dough can even swell up inside of your horse’s stomach, leading to fatal blockages which will cause them severe pain until death takes over.

No matter how much horses might like bread products owners should never give their horses these types of food.

Bran Mashes

Bran contains a high level of phosphorus and very little calcium, which is bad for a horse. Your horse needs twice as much calcium as phosphorus. 

Too much bran can cause a mineral imbalance and cause diarrhea.

Plants That Your Horse Should Not Eat

Highly Toxic Plants:

In this instance, my definition of “Highly Toxic” plants are plants that can cause death in a short amount of time. These are plants that can cause death even if they are eaten in small quantities. 

Be on the lookout for these plants and make sure your horse doesn’t consume any of them.

Privet

Privet

Box privet is the most dangerous for your horse. Keep your pasture clean and clear of this plant.

This is a shrub that can cause muscle weakness, ataxia (general term for lack of coordination), depression, labored breathing due to paralysis of the respiratory muscles, and death when eaten in large quantities by your horse.

Rhododendron

rhododendron

Rhododendron is not something a horse will typically eat unless their pasture doesn’t contain other quality grasses to forage on.

The toxins found in the rhododendron genus can cause death without medical attention. They are known as cardenolides or cardiac glycosides which obstruct the natural rhythm of the heart and result in heart arrhythmias that can lead to the death of your horse.

The highest concentrations of these compounds are found within fruit, flowers, or immature leaves. This toxicity remains even after the plant has dried out.

Ragwort

Ragwort

Ragwort has a bitter taste while it’s growing and horses will rarely eat it BUT once it’s dried out a bit the bitterness decreases and horses may eat it when the rest of the grass is lacking. 

Ragwort will affect a horse’s liver, pancreas, and gastrointestinal tract if eaten. 

Symptoms to watch for include:

  • Loss of Appetite & Digestive Issues (such as diarrhea or colic)
  • Increased Risk for Laminitis (founder)
  • Kidney Failure
  • Anemia

If you suspect that your horse has eaten ragwort call a veterinarian immediately to get the right treatment and care for them.

Foxglove

Horses normally won’t eat Foxglove because it’s a flowering plant and therefore bitter tasting. However, if your horse is starving they will eat anything.

Foxglove contains cardiac glycosides that can cause death to horses within 24 hours of ingestion. Symptoms include:

Colic with excessive salivation, abdominal pain, and respiratory distress may lead to cardiovascular collapse

Treatment for Foxglove poisoning includes the use of Digoxin immune FAB (ovine) serum as an antidote along with other supportive care such as the administration of activated charcoal via stomach tube & IV fluids until symptoms subside. 

If you suspect your horse has ingested foxglove call a veterinarian immediately! The treatment required could be life-saving but only available from a vet or specialized clinic at this time.

Yew

Yew

Yew is common in most pastures. The leaves and berries are just as poisonous as the plant itself. Just 500g of this can cause your horse to go into a coma-like sleep state and die. Yew contains the toxin Taxine which causes death in most cases.

Symptoms of Yew poisoning include:

Drooling, loss of appetite followed by vomiting and diarrhea within 12 hours post-ingestion leading to neurologic signs including depression, head pressing, ataxia (lack of coordination), recumbency with respiratory failure & coma before death occurs. 

There is not an effective treatment for Yew toxicity so prevention is key! Provide your horse with access to other quality grasses while making sure that none of these make it into their grazing area or pasture where they could be eaten.

Less Toxic Plants: 

When referring to these plants as “less toxic” what I mean is that your horse might not die from eating a small amount of them. Even though these are not as toxic as the previous plants mentioned, you should try your best to make sure your horse does not consume these plants as they are not healthy for the horse and can cause death if consumed in large volumes. 

Deadly Nightshade

Deadly Nightshade

This plant is common in the Eastern and Central US.  The leaves, flowers, and unripe fruit can cause the death of your horse if ingested.

Symptoms include:

Dilated pupils & tremors before seizuring or colicking (abdominal pain) occurs

Treatment for Deadly Nightshade toxicity includes the use of activated charcoal via stomach tube along with IV fluids to flush out toxins from the body until symptoms subside. If caught early enough horses survive after supportive care but only a veterinarian will be able to provide appropriate treatment.

Buttercups

Buttercups

Buttercups are often found as a weed in pastures as well as along the side of roads as they grow very quickly. The whole plant is poisonous to horses. They won’t normally eat it due to the bitter taste but if they are hungry enough or there is very little else in the pasture they may eat it.

Symptoms of buttercup poisoning include:

  • Swelling of face
  • Drooling
  • Loss of appetite
  • Colic
  • Blistering of the lips
  • Mouth lesions
  • Convulsions
  • Twitching of the skin
  • Paralysis

Dangerous toxicity levels are not common seeing horses don’t like the taste of Buttercups and therefore won’t consume enough to cause extreme toxicity.

Once the plant is removed from your horses environment symptoms should start to get better. Should your horse have high levels of toxicity the treatment will vary depending on symptoms which may include medications, therapy or both.

Acorns

Acorns

Acorns are loved by many horses but can cause colic, a build-up of gas in the gut) Acorns drop in the Autumn and you should collect them off the ground or maybe even prohibit grazing around those trees until they have all dropped and been collected after Autumn has passed.

The tannins found in acorns are poisonous to horses, causing gastroenteritis and kidney failure.

Acorn poisoning is a serious and often fatal disease. The only treatment that vets can offer to move things through the gut is charcoal feeds, Epsom salts, or liquid paraffin. Fluids and electrolytes are also given to help the horse with possible dehydration.

Sycamore, Maple and Other Acers

Helicopter seeds

Helicopter seeds in Autumn and saplings in Spring contain hypoglycin-A that causes atypical myopathy in horses. Symptoms include:

  • Muscular stiffness
  • Reluctance to walk
  • Muscle tremors
  • Sweating
  • High heart rate
  • Dark urine

Your horse may appear weak and may have difficulty standing, breathing difficulties, but may still want to eat. If this happens, call your vet immediately. 

Lawn Clippings & Compost 

Lawn Clippings

Sticks, twigs, and all sorts of foreign objects can get into lawn clippings. Besides the foreign objects in lawn clippings, green grass in this compact form is way too much for your horse to consume in one go. 

Another reason why lawn clippings are a bad idea for horses is there can be so many hazardous plants in the lawn. The plants that I have mentioned above are quite common in most gardens. These toxic plants can cause serious health implications.

Because fresh-cut lawn grass is so wet, it can easily become moldy before your horse eats it, this can cause problems for the lungs. 

Normally lawn grass gets treated with all sorts of chemicals to keep the bugs off or help it grow in whichever way. These chemicals can be poisonous to your horse even if the lawn was treated long ago.

Dog and Cat Food

Dog and Cat Food

Like most human foods, dog and cat food won’t cause death to your horse in a short amount of time. The problem with dog and cat food is that it contains meat products that have no health benefits for horses. 

A horse can also easily eat too much of this type of food which can cause colic. This food swells up when the horse drinks water and can cause some serious digestive problems. 

What Can Horses Eat For Treats?

Ok, so even most of the fruit and vegetables listed at the top of this article can be fed to your horse as a treat but only a bite or two. For example, one cabbage leaf won’t have any negative health defects for your horse. Rather stick to the below treats though instead of the above. 

You must always make sure to treat your horse with small pieces of fruit or veg, excluding the seeds or pits. If the pieces of treats are too big, your horse can choke. 

Having said this, the safer treats you can feed your horse still within moderation (only a bite or two) are the following: 

  • Banana
  • Squash 
  • Carrot 
  • Celery 
  • Mango 
  • Pear 
  • Grape
  • Lettuce 
  • Orange 
  • Plum 
  • Pumpkin
  • Watermelon

Don’t treat your horse every day or even every time you see them unless you only see them maybe once a week. Even if it’s once a week, make sure the horse doesn’t expect the treat from you every time they see you. 

Treating your horse too much can also cause them to get cheeky and maybe even start biting. Feeding your horse too many treats will also cause an imbalanced diet. 

Wrapping It Up

What are some things horses should not eat? What are the consequences of eating these things? What is a safe alternative for treats that can be fed to horses without negative health implications? What effect do too many treats have on your horse’s behavior, diet, and overall well-being? I hope this article has helped you understand what types of food your horse should avoid as well as how to provide them with good quality alternatives in moderation. We all want our pets to live long, happy lives so it’s important we feed them responsibly!

When do Horses Stop Growing? Life Cycle of a Horse

When Do Horses Stop Growing

Cute Foal In Pasture

On average, a horse stops growing at four to five years old. At two years old, it’s already grown 95% of its total growth. Larger breeds of horses like draft horses can grow until they are 8 years old. Factors that determine horse growth are breed, health, and diet.

After extensive research on the subject, this article has everything you need to know regarding when do horses stop growing. I’ve provided figures on each growth stage in the horses’ life as well.

Once the maximum height is attained within four to eight years depending on the horse, it will grow a bit wider and fill out with more muscle as well. The total growth time for a horse in terms of height, width, muscle, and emotional maturity can be rounded off to eight years old.

A fully grown horse can be 14–17 hands tall. This translates to 56–68 inches (142–178 cm) in height. The weight of a horse is generally 840 to 1,210 lb (380 to 550kg) However, the horses’ diet has an impact on these figures as well, for example:

After eight to ten weeks of age, high-quality grain and forage can be fed to a foal to increase the speed and size of its growth. Any horse that receives extra nutrients through high-quality grains and forages throughout its life will grow quicker and bigger than a horse that lives mostly off pasture grass and hay.

How Much Will a Horse Grow After 1-Year-Old? “Yearling Stage”

Foal Horse 6

At this young age, your horse has already grown up to 90% of its total height and weight. Yearlings can put on as much as 3 lbs (1.4 kg) of weight per day. This is the quickest growth stage and there isn’t that much growing to do after this. Just slow and steady growth, you’ll probably only notice this growth if you only see the horse seasonally.

How Much Will a Horse Grow After 2 Years Old?

At two years old, your yearling now becomes either a colt(male) or filly (female). In my experience horses at this age have usually grown up to 95% of their full adult height so you can expect around 5% additional growth in total after just two more years!

I normally see a 5% increase in growth from years two to five and then a bit of filling out in muscle in years five to eight.

How Much Will a Horse Grow After 3 Years Old?

Yearling Horse

Still referred to as colts and fillies, the average additional growth expectation of a 3 year old horse is less than 5% of its current height. On average, the horse will only be growing in height for another one or two years and it won’t be very noticeable.

They will still grow in width and muscle for another three to four years, but not by that much. At this stage, they are usually at least 96% of their total weight and height. This is applicable to most horses, including quarter horses.

How Much Will a Horse Grow After 4 Years Old?

At 4 years old, your colt or filly now becomes your stallion (male) or mare (female) Normally a horse will not grow more than five percent of its current height. They will still fill out in width and muscle for a few years, though.

If it’s a Draft horse or Arabian, it can still grow for another two or three years before maxing out on height. Most horses are fully grown in all regards, height, width, and muscle, after seven to eight years.

Height and Weight of Horses at Different Life Stages/Age

Foal

Any horse under 1 year of age is referred to as a foal. 

Height: A newborn foal is usually around five to seven hands tall, about half the height of its mother. That’s around 20–28 inches (50cm–71cm) in height. 

Weight: A newborn foal weighs between 76 lbs (34kg) and 108 lb (49kg) normally around 10% of its mothers’ weight. 

Bonus fact: A foal that is still nursing is called a suckling, and a foal that is still being weaned is called a weanling. Most foals have completed the weaning process within four to seven months from birth.

Yearling

Any horse between 1 and 2 years of age is referred to as a yearling. 

Height: A yearling grows to around thirteen hands tall or 95% of its total expected growth. That’s around 52 inches (132cm) in height. Horses grow most of their height in the yearling stage of their life. Like a child growing from 7 to 17 years old. 

Weight: A fresh yearling weighs around 550 lbs (250 kg) and then can double in growth in that year. The growth rate starts decreasing after this time period. 

Bonus Fact: Yearlings can put on as much as 3 lbs (1.4 kg) of weight per day!

Colt

Two Young Colts

A male horse under four years old is referred to as a colt. 

A new colt has already grown to at least 96% of its total size. This is where they will start to fill out with muscle more noticeably. 

Height: A colt is almost fully grown and can be at least 12–15 hands tall. This translates to 48–60 inches (122–152 cm) in height. 

Weight: A new colt at two years of age is at least 750 to 1089 lb (340 to 494 kg)

Filly

A female horse under four years of age is referred to as a filly. 

A new filly has already grown to at least 96% of its total size. 

Height: A Filly is normally a bit smaller than a colt but still around 11–14 hands tall. This translates to 44–56 inches (112–142 cm) in height. 

Weight: A new filly at two years of age weighs at least around 675 lb to 980 lb (306 to 445 kg)

Stallion

A non-castrated male horse four years old and older is referred to as a stallion. 

Height: A stallion is generally considered fully grown in height and is about 14–17 hands tall. This translates to 56–68 inches (142–178 cm) 

Weight: The weight of a stallion is generally 840 to 1,210 lb (380 to 550kg)

Mare

Female horses four years and older are referred to as mares. 

Height: A mare is generally considered fully grown and is about 13–16 hands tall. This translates to 52–64 inches (132–162 cm) in height. 

Weight: The weight of a mare is at least 756 to 1089 lb (344 to 495kg)

Gelding

A castrated male horse of any age is referred to as a gelding. 

Height: A gelding is generally considered fully grown and is about 14–17 hands tall. This translates to 56–68 inches (142–178 cm) in height. 

Weight: The weight of a gelding is at least 840 to 1,210 lb (380 to 550kg)

A Healthy Diet for a Growing Horse

Foal

Foal Horse 2

Suckling – An average suckling foal will consume about 33 pounds (15 kg) of milk daily. After a few days, the young suckling starts following their mothers’ example and nibbles a bit on the grass. This is what we call the start of the weaning process, where the young foal starts learning to eat from the land. 

Weanlings – Weanlings will start to consume 3% of their body weight in dry matter per day, and at this growth stage they are receiving the most important nutrients of their life. Nutrition is of paramount importance, as this is the age when the skeleton is most vulnerable to developing disease or disorders.

Weanlings need a considerable amount of energy in their diet to support their rapid growth. A lack of energy in their diet will stunt their growth and too much energy may cause them to grow unnaturally fast. Both of these scenarios should be avoided. 

Protein – A high-quality protein intake is essential for muscle, ligament, and tissue development. An adequate amount of protein is required each day to ensure a healthy, natural growth pattern. 

Diets that are low in two specific essential amino acids, lysine, and threonine, will stunt the growth rate and decrease the nutritional intake in young, growing horses. Lysine should account for just over 4% of the weanlings’ total protein intake.

Minerals Weanlings require an ample supply of minerals, most importantly calcium, phosphorus, zinc, and copper. These are necessary for proper bone development.

However, supplementing too much or too little must be avoided to prevent developmental orthopedic diseases. I advise working with a veterinarian or equine nutritionist to ensure a weanlings’ mineral needs are being met.

Monitor your foal’s growth:

Foal Horse 1

Monitoring the average daily gain, wither height, and hip height can be invaluable in making sure your foal is growing in a healthy fashion. By monitoring these on a weekly basis, you can show your veterinarian the results and changes can be made in the diet accordingly to maintain a level plane of growth.

You will need a horse height and weight measuring tape like this one They are very inexpensive and handy to keep around the barn. When purchasing one, make sure it is easily readable and that the tape measure can be fixed if it begins to wear. A classic tape measure will also work in a pinch.

Osteochondrosis (OCD)

This is the result of defective maturation of cartilage into bone during growth–cartilage that does not ossify properly and doesn’t reach sufficient maturation or strength.

OCD has no specific clinical signs or symptoms and so it may not be apparent even with clinical observation. X-rays are the best way to determine if a horse is suffering from OCD. Although more subtle OCD lesions may still not be apparent. In less severe cases, OCD can heal itself over time.

Physitis

This is the inflammation of the growth plate. Similar to OCD, a foal may have minor physitis without any obvious clinical signs. Clinical signs that can make it more apparent might include an hourglass appearance of the fetlock joint or a bony ridge above the carpus. If these signs are observed, X-rays will be needed to determine the severity of the physitis.

Cervical compressive myelopathy

This is the compression of the spinal cord due to either instability of the vertebral column or narrowing of the spinal canal. Horses that suffer from this disorder are more commonly referred to as “wobblers”. There are many factors that can cause a horse to become a wobbler, as balance is affected by many different factors.

Angular limb deformities (ALD)

ALD is easier to identify as the limb or limbs do not rest on the normal weight-bearing axis. The limbs may be angled towards or away from the horse’s body. ALD can be present from birth or develop over time.

Flexural limb deformities (FLD)

This is also visually obvious, as you will see the legs of the horse will be partially flexed. This occurs when the functional length of the tendon is not sufficient to maintain the limb in its normal extension. Clinical signs would be an abnormal upright stance and a knuckling at the fetlock.

Club Feet

Club feet have smaller, steeper angles compared to a normal hoof. Club feet can be inherited, due to decreased weight-bearing, the result of injury, or flexural deformities involving the deep digital flexor tendon.

Common causes of DOD

  1. Genetic predisposition
  2. Biomechanical trauma
  3. Stress on bones due to inappropriate exercise or obesity
  4. Abnormal rapid growth
  5. Inappropriate or imbalanced nutrition

When do Thoroughbred, Paint and Quarter Horses Stop Growing?

Quarterhorse Foal And Mare

On average, these horses stop growing in height after four to five years of age. They can grow up to 14–17 hands tall or 56–68 inches (142–178 cm) in height. The weight of a quarter horse is 840 to 1,210 lb (380 to 550kg) After five years they will grow in width and muscle for two or three more years and sometimes gain a little extra height as well.

When do Arabian Horses Stop Growing?

With Arabian horses, they grow for a bit longer and usually grow bigger than other horses. Many Arabian horses grow even in height up to the age of eight years. A long time for a big horse.

When do Miniature Horses Stop Growing?

Miniature horses can be fully grown within one to two years! I suppose they don’t have much growing to do so it’s pretty quick.

What’s the Biggest Horse in the World?

Big Jake the Belgian Gelding horse has earned worldwide fame for his extraordinary height. Standing (without shoes) at a majestic 20 hands 2.75 inches (210.19 cm), he officially became the Tallest horse living when measured on 19 January 2010 until his death in June of 2021.

What’s the Smallest Horse in the World?

Thumbelina (born May 1, 2001) is a dwarf miniature horse and the world’s smallest horse. She stands 17 inches (43 cm) tall and weighs 57 lb (26 kg), and received the title of world’s smallest from Guinness World Records.

A Table of 19 Horses With Full Growth Ages

Different Breeds Years to Full Height Growth 
QuarterhorsesFour to Five Years 
Thoroughbred Horses Four to Five Years 
Paint Horses Four to Five Years 
Tennessee Walker Six to Eight Years
Morgan Four to Five Years 
Appaloosa Four to Five Years 
Miniature Horse One To Three Years
Warmblood  Four to Five Years 
Andalusian  Four to Five Years 
Hackney  Four to Five Years 
Belgian Draft HorseSix to Eight 
Shetland Pony One To Three Years
Gypsy Vanner Four to Five Years 
Friesian Five to Eight Years 
Clydesdale Four to Five Years 
Haflinger Four to Five Years 
Paso Fino Four to Five Years 
Arabian Horses Five to Eight Years 
Welsh Pony One to Three Years 

Wrapping It All Up

When do horses stop growing? A horse’s growth is determined by many different factors that will affect the lifespan of a horse. Horses can grow in height for four to five years and then after that they tend to gain weight or width for two or three more years before stopping their growth altogether.

The 14 Largest Horse Breeds In The World

14 Largest Horse Breeds In The Wor

What is the largest horse breed in the world? The answer may surprise you. In this blog post, we’ll take a look at the 14 largest horse breeds in the world. We’ll talk about their origins, how they are used, and other interesting facts about these amazing horses!

Shire Horse

Large Shire Horse

The largest horse breed in the world is actually a bit of a surprise! The shire horse comes from England, and was bred as an all-purpose farm animal. They were used for plowing fields, moving heavy objects around the farm, and pulling carriages on their knees.

The size and dimension of this horse making them ideal for farm work rather than battlefront conditions. Today these horses are raised mainly for show despite still being incredibly strong and powerful creatures with high endurance levels compared to similar breeds like Clydesdales or Belgians.

The largest Shire horse on record weighed in at a whopping 2660 pounds! These horses stand anywhere from 16-17 hands tall, and can weigh up to 2000 kilograms (or almost half a ton).

Their coloring is usually bay, black, or brown, but they can also be grey.

The breed was also used for military purposes throughout the 1800s, but because of their gentle nature they were more popular as carriage pulling animals than actual warhorses. They were known by other names such as “Beef Steak” during this time period due to their sheer size and power.

There are still many farms that raise Shire horses in the UK and other parts of Europe, but they aren’t as popular or common as breeds like Clydesdales and Belgians.

This breed is known for having a very calm temperament, which makes them perfect family pets! Shires also have an incredibly long lifespan – some can live up to 50 years old!

Clydesdale

Large Clydesdale

Clydesdales were bred to do heavy work, and today they still have the strength to live up to their name. They were originally bred in Clydesdale, Scotland but are now more popular in America than anywhere else.

The largest horse show for them is held annually at the Wisconsin State Fair Park in West Allis, WI which attracts over 20,000 visitors each year!

The size and dimension of this horse breed are very impressive. Clydesdale horses stand at least 16 hands tall, which is equivalent to 64 inches or 164 centimeters! Clydesdale coloring is usually bay, black, or chestnut.

Clydesdale coloring is usually bay, black, or chestnut.

Today their largest fan base can be found in America where they participate as show horses and parade animals during holidays like Memorial Day and Independence Day.

They are also very popular in the beer industry because of their calm temperaments which allow them to calmly lead tourists on tours at breweries!

One surprising fact about these gentle giants is that many people think all Clydesdales are gray but there’s actually no such thing as a true ‘gray’ horse.

The color comes from the presence of black skin underlying white hair; any dark-colored gene will work with this condition (called melanism). Many times you’ll see coat colors such as bay, black or brown in Clydesdales.

A Clydesdales Life span is about 20 years.

Clydesdales live in over 30 countries and can be found all around the world! If you love big, gentle horses with a sense of calm temperament then this is definitely the breed for you!

Percheron

Percheron Horse

Percherons were originally bred in France and were used to pull heavy wagons and carriages. They are commonly known as the ‘king of draft horses’ because they have so much potential for hard work!

Percherons size is impressive! They stand at least 17 hands tall, which is equivalent to 68 inches or 173 centimeters and sometimes even taller and can weigh up to 2600 pounds! They are excellent at pulling and can pull about three times their body weight.

Percheron coloring is usually black, grey or bay.

Their largest fan base is found in America where they participate heavily as show horses. They are also are used as parade horses during events like Memorial Day and Independence Day.

Percherons perform well at shows because of their calm temperament which makes them ideal for parades, weddings, or any other situation where they would be expected to stand for long periods of time.

Belgian Draft

Belgian Draft Horse

Belgian Draft horses are known for their impressive size and imposing presence! They are commonly used as farm horses because of the hard work they can do.

Belgian Drafts stand at least 17 hands tall, which is equivalent to 68 inches or 173 centimeters and sometimes even taller. They can weigh up to 2000 pounds.

A typical Belgian Drafts life span is about 20 years. The majority of Belgian Drafts are a chestnut color with Flaxen mane and tails.

Belgian drafts have great temperaments so they are perfect for parades, weddings or any other situation where you would expect them to stand still for long periods of time.

They were originally bred from Flanders draft horse bloodlines but today there are many different types including crosses between Percherons and Clydesdales!

The largest breed show in the world is held every year at the Wisconsin State Fair Park and it attracts over 20,000 visitors each year! If you’re looking for a powerful work horse then look no further than this majestic animal!

Dutch Draft

Dutch Draft Horse

Dutch Draft horses are thought to be one of the largest horse breeds in the world. They are very strong and have a calm temperament, making them ideal for pulling large loads or other farm work. The Dutch Draft horse is also known as an “English Shire Horse.”

Possibly originated from Friesland, North Holland around 1000 AD where people bred horses with shaggy coats that were big boned but not heavily muscled.

These draft horses were used by farmers during planting season since they could pull great weights without tiring quickly. As time went on, the breed became even larger until they reached their present-day size!

Dutch Draft horses can reach up to 16 hands in height and weigh up to 1700 pounds. Their life span is about 20 years. Their coloring is gray, bay or at times black

If you love big gentle horses with a sense of calm temperament then this breed might be right up your alley!

Suffolk Punch

Suffolk Punch Horse

Suffolk Punches were originally bred in Great Britain and are very calm horses that make fantastic farm animals.

They stand at least 17 hands tall and they can weight up to 2100 pounds making them one of the largest horse breeds around today and can live up to 25 years! Their coat is primarily Chestnut with 7 recognized shades.

They are one of the strongest horse breeds in the world and are also very intelligent!

They are used for farming purposes but have also gained popularity as show horses. They tend to be “head strong” which means they can get easily distracted.

They are very powerful and can be hard to handle because of their strong temperament but if you’re looking for a horse that is calm, intelligent, and great with farm work then this might be the perfect horse for you.

Australian Draught

Australian Draught Horse

The Australian Draught country of origin is not known because it is a blend of many different breeds including the Shire, Clydesdale and Suffolk Punch, and Suffolk Punch.

This breed was originally used as an all-around farm horse but has now gained popularity as a show horse in Australia!

They stand at least 16 – 17 hands tall and can weigh up to 1900 pounds. Their coloring can be Black, White, Brown,or Gray. They have long necks that lead into a sloped shoulder making them very muscular looking horses! Their lifespan is about 20 years.

This horse is very calm and easy to handle which makes it great for farm work but they are also used in shows due to their intelligence and athleticism.

If you’re looking for a powerful workhorse then this might be the perfect animal for you since they are strong, intelligent, and obedient! Plus their size makes them ideal for pulling heavy carts around your property without tiring too easily.

Boulonnais

Boulonnais Horse

Boulonnais horses are very powerful and can weight up to 1800 lbs. This breed is also known as the largest horse in France! Known as the White Marble Horse, this horse has a very muscular body, short legs with dense bone structure. They can measure between 15 and 16 hands.

The Boulonnais was used as a war-horse during battles throughout history dating back to ancient Rome and Greece where it is believed they were bred.

They are very strong and muscular which makes them great horse for pulling heavy objects around your property but they also tend to be headstrong making it difficult to handle.

If you’re looking for a powerful animal that is easy going then this might not the right breed for you! But if you can appreciate an intelligent, hardworking, large horse with a muscular body then this might be the perfect horse for you!

Jutland

Jutland Horse

The Jutland was originally bred in Denmark over 2000 years ago but quickly gained popularity throughout Europe during the Middle Ages because of their strength and intelligence. They were highly sought after by people who needed horses to pull carts through cities or on farms.

Jutland horses are very strong and can be used as a work horse due to their ability to pull great weights. They stand at least 16 hands tall and can weigh between 1400 and 1800 pounds.

They have a short neck that leads into a straight shoulder and are known for their power and strength. They can live up to 25 years if taken care of properly.

If you love big gentle horses with a sense of calm temperament then this breed might be right up your alley! This large animal will surely turn heads wherever he goes due to his impressive size and friendly personality.

Russian Heavy Draft

Russian Heavy Draft Horse

The Russian Heavy Draft is one of the largest horse breeds in the world! They can stand to 15 hands tall which is equivalent to 59 inches or 152 centimeters and can weigh between 1100 to 1500 pounds. They can live up to 30 years!

Selective breeding during the later half of the 1800’s at the Petrovsky Agricultural and Forestry Academy in Moscow led to the creation of this breed.

Their coloring tends to range from chestnut brown to dark bay, and they are known for their thick dense manes.

They have a deep, broad chest that leads into short legs with dense bone structure making them very muscular looking horses! They are known for their intelligence and willingness to work which makes them great for farm work but also can be used in pulling heavy objects around your property without getting tired easily.

Lithuanian Heavy Draught

Lithuanian Heavy Draught Horse

The Lithuanian Heavy Draught Horse is another of the largest horse breeds in the world! In the late 1900’s the Lithuanian Heavy Draught was developed by breeding Zhmud mares with Percheron, Brabant, and Ardennes.

They are very muscular with a large head and short legs making them stand at least 16 hands tall.

Their weight can range from 1100 pounds all the way up to 2000 pounds depending on their build! Their coloring can be Black, Bay, Gray, and Chestnut.

These horses are very powerful and can be used for farm work or pulling carts because of their strength. They have a thick dense mane, short legs with strong bone structure which makes them look muscular!

American Cream Draft

American Cream Draft Horse

The American Cream Draft Horse is an American breed of horse that was originally bred for use in the logging industry. The horse’s origins are traced back to the Welsh Cobs, which were brought to New England during the colonial era. Ever since, they have been used by farmers for general work purposes and by loggers to haul logs.

The height of an American Cream Draft Horse is approximately 16.2 hands at the withers. They can weigh up to 1800 pounds. Their coloring is an unusual but beautiful cream color known as Gold champagne.

This unique coloring is the result of the champagne gene mixing with the Chestnut coat. The diluted color is produced by the champagne gene which causes the gold champagne color of the body including light skin and eyes. The mane ends up an ivory color.

This breed was created in the early 20th century and are mild mannered which is great for those owners new to handling large draft horses.

Friesian

Friesian Horse

The Friesian horse is one of the largest equine breeds, historically used for heavy farm work. They were first produced in the Netherlands, and their largest population of purebreds can be found there today.

The horses are commonly black or dark brown, but sometimes they are chestnut, bay, gray, dun, palomino or cremello. The largest horse of this breed stands at 17 hands and can weigh up to 1500 pounds.

They have short legs, a well-muscled body that is broad and deep with powerful shoulders making them very attractive animals!

These horses are used for a variety of purposes including as a war horse or for leisure activities and have been used for centuries as an important asset to farmers who need them to pull heavy carts, plow fields, and take part in other activities that require strength.

They are known to be intelligent which makes them great horses for those who want to take part in dressage due to their ability to learn quickly and willingness to work.

Comtois Horse

Comtois Horse

The Comtois breed originated in the Jura Mountains along the French and Swiss border. They are a heavy horse standing between 14 and 16 hands and can weigh upwards of 1700 pounds. Thier coloring can be Black, chestnut, bay, black silver, or bay silver.

They are an older breed of horse believed to have descended from horses brought over in the 6th century by the Burgundians who were an early German tribe. During the middle ages they were used as war horses.

Comtois horses have big heads, straight necks and very muscular backs with a deep wide chest. They can pull very heavy loads with their beefed up legs and powerful backs and shoulders.

Today Comtois Horses are the most numerous heavy horse breed in France used primarily for draft and farm work. They are known to be a calm, easy going breed that loves children.

Biggest Horses In History

Big Jake

Big Jake Worlds Tallest Horse

Now that we’ve looked at some of the largest breeds of horse in the world, let’s talk about horses with a big history!

One example is Big Jake. He was recognized as the largest living horse in the world, standing 20 hands tall and weighing nearly 2600b pounds until his death in 2021. Big Jake was born to normal sized parents which makes his size even more impressive since it’s rare for a draft horse to be over 17 hands tall. He resided at Smokey Hollow Farm in Poynette WI

Big Jake broke the world record for tallest living horse back in 2010 and held that record until his death in June 2021

Sampson

Sampson was a gelded Shire Horse that was born in Bedfordshire, England in 1846 and stood 21.25 hands tall, and having an estimated weight of more than 3300 pounds! He is the largest horse ever recorded. He is considered to be the largest horse that ever lived.

One Big Thing

As you can see, there are many different types of large horse breeds. Some of the most popular ones include Clydesdales and Shires which were used for pulling carriages or heavy loads in Europe, as well as Australian horses that have been bred to be strong enough to carry smaller animals on their backs over long distances. Which type of large horse do you prefer? Weigh in with your thoughts below!

Should You Wear Shorts Horseback Riding – Pros And Cons

Wear Shorts Horseback Riding
Wear Shorts Horseback Riding

Yes, you can wear shorts horseback riding. For example, if you just want to go for a quick dip in the water bareback. Although in most cases, riding with jodhpurs, breeches, tight-fitting jeans, riding tights or even yoga pants/leggings will be far more suitable and beneficial.

Of course, this depends on what type of horse riding you are planning on doing. Outride, jumping, or going for a dip? In most instances, I wouldn’t recommend wearing shorts.

There are some riders that enjoy riding their horse while wearing shorts and a lot of them have no problem with it. They are usually more experienced riders and so they know how to control their legs in a way that won’t chafe against the sides of the horse.

One Advantage Of Horseback Riding in Shorts:

If you are going for a run on the beach or doing something involving water, going for a swim in a nearby lake perhaps, it’s faster to dry than long pants and a bit cooler but that’s about it.

Another example of when it would be ok to wear shorts on horseback: When you just want a few good photos with you and your horse. None of the disadvantages of wearing shorts will impact you if you just walk in circles for some photos.

When Do People Horseback Ride With Shorts?

Here are some examples of when riders choose shorts for horseback riding:

When you experienced enough to do so without being uncomfortable

You can get used to casually riding your horse wearing shorts, the more you do it, the more comfortable it will feel. Some riders prefer it mostly just for casual short rides.

When you go for a very short ride

It would be best to keep the riding time down to a minimum and try to stay close to the farm so that you can get back quickly if you get uncomfortable.

When there aren’t any obstacles

It’s best to avoid wearing shorts when performing any jumps because of all the vigorous movements you need to endure with the horse. With the way that you control the horse with your legs, especially with jumping, it’s just better with riding pants like the ones further down in this article.

When you go for a quick dip in the water nearby

Sometimes it’s a treat to go for a dip in the water nearby. This is one of the times where I think it’s great just to go bareback and perfectly fine just to wear shorts. They won’t get heavy with the water and they’ll dry quickly as well.

When it’s very hot

Sometimes you just need a little more open air on your legs to cool you down. Remember to use sunblock to protect your legs.

When you just want a few photos with you in your shorts on your horse

Maybe you just want to hop on your horse with your shorts on and have someone take a few photos. I don’t see any cause for concern with this.

Horseback Rider Shorts

Disadvantages of Horseback Riding in Shorts

Rash, blister, and pinching:

For less experienced riders you’ll most likely land up with a bit of a rash, sometimes even some blistering, and if you saddle up your thighs are probably going to get a few good pinches between the stirrup straps throughout the ride.

Sunburn:

With short pants, your legs will be exposed to the sun and you can get burnt very quickly. Apply sunblock, even if you have to buy some on the way.

Burning Saddle:

The leather of the saddle can also heat up rather quickly and burn your skin sometimes. So, for the most part, there’s not much good to say about riding a horse wearing shorts.

Sharp bushes and branches:

We can’t even suggest wearing shorts for an outride. Your legs will be so much more exposed to all sorts of sharp branches from bushes and trees. Bugs will have an easier time feasting off your legs.

When in doubt, ask.

It really is up to you, however, if you are not riding your own horse on your own land, check with the owners or renters on whether they will allow shorts to be worn. Some places won’t let you ride in shorts. Short pants have no place in the competitive equestrian scene.

Tips for Horse Riding in Shorts

Ok so at this point you have seen all the pros and cons but you still want to or maybe need to ride your horse wearing shorts. Maybe you just want a few good photos out of it. That could work. Here’s my advice:

  • Don’t go out for any lengthy rides
  • Use sunblock on top of and on the sides of your legs
  • If you start feeling skin irritation, call it a day, it will only get worse
  • Be careful not to get pinched between the stirrup straps and the saddle
  • If you are capable of riding bareback, rather do that in shorts so that you don’t get pinched and burnt by the saddle.
  • No matter which pants you wear or don’t wear, ALWAYS wear proper riding boots with heels. (More important than the pants)
Horseback Rider Wearing Shorts

Quick Tip on Casual Clothing:

Don’t wear any flowing clothing while horse riding or anything that has any freely hanging laces or straps.

Why Wear Jodhpurs, Breeches, or Riding Tights?

There is a reason why long pants are the preferred choice of riders in general and why it’s the ONLY choice in the professional horse-riding scene. It’s because of how well they work for horse riding.

These types of riding pants are tailored specifically for horse riding so they often have extra padding, they are stretchy for comfort and the seams of these types of pants are offset so that they don’t cause irritation between your legs and the horse.

Advantages of Jodhpurs, Breeches, and Riding Tights are as follows:

  1. Protection for your legs from sunburn.
  2. They will protect your legs from chafing or even blisters.
  3. They will prevent any pinching of your legs around the saddle and straps.
  4. They will guard your legs against bugs and other insects.
  5. They will keep your legs from getting scraped and scratched against bushes and tree branches.
  6. They give you more leg control on the horse without any discomfort.
  7. You will be able to go out for longer riding sessions.
  8. Certain jodhpurs and breeches will have extra padding on the areas that go through the most friction for a more comfortable ride.
  9. The seams are offset so that they don’t cause discomfort between the horse and your leg.

Jodhpurs

Jodhpurs, the little more casual choice, go all the way down to the bottom of your ankle and are usually folded up for the perfect fit. Some jodhpurs have a stirrup at the bottom to wrap around your foot to prevent them from riding up to your ankles.

Some jodhpurs also have extra padding on the inner leg section to make riding more comfortable. Jodhpurs stretch with the movements of your body, making everything feel better. The seams are offset away from the horse’s body to avoid chafing.

Jodhpurs are very well suited for children and beginners of all ages because of their ease of use. You put them on and they stay in place from start to end. Most of the time.

Breeches

Breeches, the little more formal choice, are very similar to jodhpurs in that they are also stretchy for comfort, more often they have padding where it counts. Breeches usually don’t have a stirrup at the bottom, but they fit tightly around the top of your ankle. The further to your ankle the breeches go, the more narrow they become making them fit snugly around the bottom of your leg.

Riding Tights

Riding tights have become very popular amongst all riders over the last decades. They are very flexible and quite durable. You don’t have to fasten them at the top. Riding tights are available in many designs.

Bonus Tip, Wear Proper Riding Boots

Wearing proper horse riding boots is one of the most important things you can do. More important than whether you want to wear shorts on a ride. Have a look at the most

Can Horses Vomit? How Does This Affect Horse Care?

Can Horses Vomit
Can Horses Vomit

Can horses vomit you ask? It’s extremely important for you to know how your horse’s digestive system works. What it can and can’t do and why. Here we are going to go through why horses can’t vomit and what to do when they have consumed too much or even the wrong type of food.

Horses can’t vomit, they have a one-way entry path into their stomach. They have a cut-off valve and an angled stomach track to ensure they don’t vomit. A horse’s stomach is positioned deep within the rib cage, so abdominal muscles can’t easily squeeze it. A horse doesn’t naturally need to vomit.

Horses normally have no natural need to vomit because they are very picky about what they eat. Normally toxic vegetation is not very palatable for them and even when they do eat a few toxic plants they will manage to digest them without it turning fatal.

However, it’s still important to make sure that the chance of eating toxic plants is limited. You can learn more about toxic plants in this article.

Other reasons why horses are designed not to vomit is because the head and neck of horses are low down to the ground when they are grazing compared to the height of their stomachs. So they need to fight against gravity to make sure they retain their food.

One more big reason why horses can’t vomit is that when they are running their stomachs are pushed and pressured in a way that would normally cause a mammal to vomit but because the horse naturally needs to run to survive in the wild, it doesn’t vomit.

In rare cases, the stomach of the horse may be under so much pressure with food and gas that it breaks the seal of the cut-off valve and allows some of the food to go back up through the throat and mouth BUT in most cases, this will mean that the stomach was under so much pressure that it has most certainly ruptured and after a short moment of relief for the horse it normally dies.

White Horse Eating

Reasons Why Horses Don’t Vomit

  1. Their heads and necks are always lower than their stomachs while grazing and they need to fight gravity to keep their food inside.
  2. They need to retain their food while fleeing from danger. Galloping puts a lot of pressure on the stomach that would normally cause other mammals to vomit but horses always need to be able to flee from danger at any moment and vomiting would impede this survival skill.
  3. Naturally, they don’t need to vomit. Horses are quite particular about what they eat, they don’t like the taste of most toxic plants and even when they do eat a small amount of toxic plants they can usually handle it.
  4. Access to huge quantities of concentrated feed is not natural. Horses, like all lifeforms, are designed for the natural world and so when humans create unnatural circumstances like stockpiling concentrated feed, it conflicts with nature. Horses in nature mostly graze on low energy forage like grass and even though they can graze like this for 16 hours per day, it’s normally never too much to handle.

If Your Horse APPEARS to be Vomiting

If your horse appears to be vomiting or foaming/drooling at the mouth, it may be choking on its feed. A horse choking won’t look the same as a person choking, and it’s important that if you see these signs of choking, that you remove any feed and call your vet.

While your vet is on their way, you can feel the horse’s neck gently to see if there is any swelling to inform the vet upon their arrival.

The vet will assess the situation and try to get rid of any obstruction in the throat of the horse. If they feel they need to. Sometimes they will decide that it may just be a small obstruction that can clear up by itself. I would rather be on the safe side and call the vet to evaluate before waiting to see if it passes. At least ask the vet telephonically what they think.

If you can, video call your vet so that they can see and hear the horse to assess them. If you can’t video call, they can at least listen to this type of problem over a voice call to help them assess the situation.

Never Try to Induce Vomiting In a Horse

Because of how the horse’s body is designed not to vomit, you should NEVER try to induce vomiting in a horse. You will only cause major stomach spasms which could lead to death. Rather call your vet immediately if your horse has eaten too much or if it’s eaten anything toxic.

How Not Vomiting Affects Your Horse

The most obvious cause for concern here is that if your horse consumes too much feed like grain and other concentrated feeds, it may cause the stomach to rupture and result in death.

Another cause for concern is that if you see that your horse has eaten something toxic, even an excessive amount of toxic plants, there is no way of expelling those toxins straight back out of the mouth. To learn more about toxic plants, have a look at this article.

Horse Eating Hay

Procedure To Follow If Your Horse Ate Too Much Feed

  1. Separate your horse from any food if there is any left around.
  2. Call a veterinarian immediately and let them know that your horse ate too much feed.
  3. While your vet is on their way to you and the horse, check how much and what type of feed they ate as best you can. Make a note of it.
  4. Have fresh water available for your horse to drink.
  5. Check around the ground to see if they have recently discharged any feces and how much.
  6. Make sure that the horse’s hooves are cooled down to prevent inflammation. You can use cold water on rags with ice inside or if there is anybody of water available for the horse to stand in that can work as well. You can use buckets with ice and water as well. There are even hoof boots that are made for holding ice. Just avoid direct contact of the ice on the horse’s body to avoid frostbite.

What Will The Veterinarian Do For The Horse?

Once the vet arrives, they will assess the horse themselves and ask you if you know what the horse consumed and how much. After assessing the horse, they might do one or more of the following:

  • Gastric lavage to flush the horse’s digestive system
  • Activated charcoal to help absorb toxins in your horse’s digestive system
  • Dosing with mineral oil or laxatives to help pass the extra feed
  • They may administer anti-inflammatory drugs
  • Administration of medical fluids

Up to 10% of horses may need surgical treatment but in most cases, the horse can be treated medicinally as per the above medical procedures.

Horse Veterinarian

Monitoring Your Horse After Treatment

Your vet may recommend that you keep the hooves and lower limbs of the horse cooled for 24 to 48 hours. One of the easier ways to do this will be with the use of hoof boots that are made for holding ice like the Tough 1 Ice Boot. Make sure to avoid direct contact between the ice and the horse’s body to avoid frostbite.

Monitor the digital pulse and temperature of your horse’s hooves. If the pulse or temperature increases, call your vet and give them the figures. You can also check for signs of laminitis such as lameness, soreness, and standing in an unusual way. If your horse is developing or experiencing laminitis, it may stand with the front feet stretched out in front to take the pressure off the toes and the hind feet positioned under them to support the weight that their front feet can’t.

Symptoms of Eating Too Much Feed

  • Spasmodic Colic – A build-up of gas in the colon and is very painful for the horse.
  • Impaction Colic – Similar to constipation is caused by dehydration, consuming too much sand and dirt, or rich, dense food
  • Diarrhea – Defined as loose stools, or excessive and overly frequent defecation.
  • Laminitis – This is an inflammation of the laminae of the foot.

Can Horses Live on Grass Alone? Healthy Eating Guide for Horses

Can Horses Live On Grass Alone
Can Horses Live on Grass Alone

Surely if there are wild horses out there living off pastures of grass, domestic horses can live on grass alone as well?

So can horses live on grass alone? In short, yes, all horses can live on grass alone. Healthy grass for grazing needs to be rich in nutrients to keep a horse healthy. Optimal levels of Nitrogen (N), Phosphorus (P), and Potassium (K) need to be present in the grass. Some areas don’t have enough protein available.

If you’re planning to feed your horse off grass/pasture alone, we HIGHLY recommend you read further down to know if the pasture is suitable for sustaining a healthy horse.

If you’re going out riding, jumping, and doing other fun equestrian activities, you should be feeding your horse more than just pasture grass.

These extra activities require a lot more energy than simply walking around all day grazing the open pastures and so you will need to assist your horse in receiving extra energy with concentrates listed further in this article.

How to Know if Your Grass/Pasture is Big and Healthy Enough for Your Horse to Live off

Check Size:

Generally, if you have a pasture between 2 and 4 acres large it will suffice for 1 horse grazing daily. If it’s less than 2 acres, you will have to maintain the pasture through extra watering, fertilizing, etc. (You can measure your pasture size with Google Earth, just follow the link to measure your pasture size.

Soil Test:

All the forage including the grass is feeding off the soil underneath it. Soil can be very different from one farm to the next and we advise having your soil tested by a local analytical laboratory.

They will test the nutrient levels of your soil and also give you a pH figure which are the two most important aspects of “healthy soil” After they provide the results they should also give you recommendations on which types of fertilizers to use or how much Agricultural lime you should apply if your soil is too acidic.

Check The pH level:

Similar to checking the pH of a pool. The optimal pH number is 7, anything higher than 7 is considered basic, and a pH lower than 7 is considered acidic. For your horse to live off this grass alone it needs to be around 6 to 7 pH. If the soil is too acidic like 5 or below, it will stunt or even stop the growth of healthy grass.

Acidic soils don’t contain enough nutrients. Agricultural lime also called “aglime” is basic in nature. You will need to add the appropriate amount of lime to the soil to balance off the pH to around 7. You will get these figures from your soil testing facility.

4. Nitrogen (N), Phosphorus (P), and Potassium (K)

These are the three main nutrients, which at the right level, make for healthy grass for grazing. Your grass needs just the right amount of each one of these nutrients to be able to grow and reproduce.

Here we provide a more detailed description of each of these three main nutrients and the optimal target of nine different nutrients in your pasture.

4.1 Nitrogen (N)

If there is sufficient Nitrogen (N) in your grass it will be dark green, full and bushy. If the grass is pale/light green or maybe even yellow and growing slowly, then it’s usually due to a lack of Nitrogen (N)

Adding too much Nitrogen (N) to your grass in one dose can be bad. It’s best to apply the total recommended amount over two or three applications. Ask your supplier for detailed instructions for the application of their product and how to spread it out.

4.2 Phosphorus (P)

Phosphorus (P) needs to be at the right level to assist with great root development. If the grass and other forage don’t have well-rooted systems, they will not get enough nutrients from the soil.

4.3 Potassium (K)

Potassium (K) is related to the hardiness of the grass and other forage. If your grass lacks potassium, it might not survive the winter conditions. It also might die off due to a lack of disease resistance. Slow growth is another sign of potassium deficiency.

What Are the Optimum Nutrient Targets For Pastures?

Common Plants in Grass That Are Toxic to Your Horse (With Pictures)

There are also toxic weeds and plants within some pastures. Here are the most common toxic weeds and plants found in pastures amongst the grass:

Ragwort

Ragwort

Ragwort has a bitter taste while it’s growing and horses will rarely eat it BUT once it’s dried out a bit, the bitterness decreases, and horses may eat it when the rest of the grass is lacking.

Ragwort contains toxins that will result in liver failure or even death. Consumption of only a few pounds over the horse’s lifetime can result in death.

Use herbicides or manual control in order to uproot, remove, and burn. Spray there when they are at the rosette stage, don’t wait for the stem to appear. Mowing and cutting ragwort will make it grow back more quickly.

Foxglove

Foxglove

Horses normally won’t eat Foxglove, but if it’s dried up in grass, it can be eaten without hesitation. Just 100g of this stuff dried up in hay could prove fatal.

Symptoms of foxglove poisoning include contracted pupils, convulsions, breathing difficulties, and death after only a few hours.

Deadly Nightshade

Deadly Nightshade

Contrary to the name, Deadly Nightshade is not normally deadly but may cause unconsciousness, dilation of the pupils, and convulsions. Also known as Atropa belladonna, commonly known as Belladonna.

Buttercups

Buttercups

Buttercups or Ranunculus are poisonous to horses if they are eaten fresh and in large amounts. Unlike the before-mentioned weeds, buttercups are harmless after drying in the hay.

Acorns

Acorns

Acorns are loved by many horses but can cause colic, a build-up of gas in the gut) Acorns drop in the Autumn and you should collect them off the ground or maybe even prohibit grazing around those trees until they have all dropped and been collected after Autumn has passed.

Yew

Yew

Yew is common in most pastures. The leaves and berries are just as poisonous as the plant itself, so make sure that none of these make it to your grazing area.
Just 500g of this can cause your horse to go into a coma-like sleep state and die.

Privet

Privet

Box privet is the most dangerous for your horse. Keep your pasture clean and clear of this.

Rhododendron

Rhododendron

Consumption of a small amount of Rhododendron can cause death by failure of the respiratory system.

Sycamore, maple, and other acers

Maple Seeds

Helicopter seeds in Autumn and saplings in Spring contain hypoglycin-A which causes atypical myopathy in horses. Symptoms include muscular stiffness, reluctance to walk, muscle tremors, sweating, depression, high heart rate, and dark urine (reddish in color). Your horse may appear weak and may have difficulty standing, and breathing difficulties, but may still want to eat. If this happens, call your vet immediately.

Basic Guidelines for Feeding Your Horse

Roughage usually grass should be the bulk of the horses’ diet

For most non-competitive horses, roughage from the pasture or hay will be sufficient. Even if you do supplement your horses’ diet with concentrate, it should not be anywhere near the volume of grass feed. A horse should eat around 1 to 2% of its own body weight in roughage every day.

Horses normally walk around the pasture slowly nibbling away on the grass while slowly digesting it. Horses that spend a lot of their time in the stable should have access to hay for most of the day to replicate natural grazing.

This roughage constantly moving through their systems will be best for their natural digestive systems.

Grain and Other Concentrates Should be Fed in Small Amounts

If you need to feed your horse extra concentrates like grain, make sure to spread out the total dose over 2 or 3 meals during the day. This will ensure the proper absorption of the grain. It’s much better for the digestive system because it’s a more natural way to consume food.

  • The amount of food your horse needs depends on the size of your horse and on how much energy your horse needs to exert on an average day.
  • If your horse does get to graze on pasture, how healthy is that pasture? If your pasture is lacking in the ways mentioned earlier in this article, you will need to supplement the diet with additional hay.
  • The health of the pasture is very dependent on the season you are in. In winter you may need to supplement more, and in summer you might not need to supplement the diet at all.
  • With all supplements and concentrates, always start off with small measurements and increase if required.
  • As your horse ages and does different things, you should adjust the diet of the horse accordingly. It doesn’t remain the same throughout its whole life.

Any Change in the Amount or Type of Feed Must be Changed Gradually

A sudden increase or decrease in the amount or type of food you feed your horse can have very bad implications like colic or founder.

If you increase or decrease the amount of food or change the type of food, you can change 20 to 25% of the food with the new amount or type every day. Over six to seven days you will have a 100% food change in size or type.

Measure Your Concentrates Accurately and Regularly

A mature horse generally consumes 2-2.5% of its body weight in feed each day (on a dry matter, DM, basis). eg, a 1,000-pound (454-kg) horse-fed hay plus grain concentrate (feeds that are about 90% DM) should consume about 20-25 pounds (9.1-11.3 kg) of feed daily.

For gastrointestinal health, horses need to eat about 1% of their body weight in hay or pasture grasses and legumes daily (10 pounds, or 4.5 kg, of DM intake for a 1,000-pound, or 454-kg, horse).

Depending on the type of feed you are using, it can have massive weight differences. Weigh your feed with a kitchen or postal scale if you don’t have a feed scale yet. Make sure it’s the right amount for your horses.

Follow a Regular Feeding Schedule

Horses thrive on routine. They have internal clocks that are very accurate. A drastic change in feeding times or intervals can trigger a colic episode in some cases. It’s better not to take the chance and change schedules slowly if necessary.

Don’t Feed Your Horse Shortly Before or After Exercise

It’s best to have at least one hour pass before riding your horse and even two to three hours if you’ll be running and jumping

After a strenuous workout, make sure your horse has cooled down and slowed breathing before feeding, around 30 to 60 minutes afterward.

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